[Healeys] 3000 Front Brakes

[Bob Spidell]

OK, I just had a panic attack as I didn't remember any 'rubber seal that 
presses onto its inside edge is also in place.' According to the Moss 
catalog, at least, the later BJ8s had a backing plate with a smaller 
cutout that didn't require the seal. There are other differences between 
earlier and later '3000s'--not the least the calipers, the pads and the 
thickness of the rotors--so we might need to be more specific.

My BJ8 has always needed about 0.030" of shims give-or-take through a 
couple sets of hubs and bearings.  All things considered, disk brakes 
are substantially different to work on than drums (IMO, of course).

Bob

On 9/17/2019 8:07 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Yes, you do need the back plate, and I would ensure that the rubber 
> seal that presses onto its inside edge is also in place.  If you don’t 
> have them (they deteriorate over time), they are available from the 
> usual suppliers.  You are right the drawings on assembly are ambiguous 
> – even in the parts book.  I put mine on the way they came off, and it 
> has been five years since I last did them.  I recall it is relatively 
> obvious but I always note the assembly when taking it apart.   I don’t 
> trust my memory to describe it – I will leave that to others.
>
> Don’t be intimidated by setting up the front bearings, it really is 
> not that hard at all and  the factory workshop manual provides good 
> guidance.  Norm Nock also has a description in his book “Tech Talk”, 
> which is still available from British Car Specialists.   It is 
> important to have a selection of a few shims handy.  When I last did 
> mine, I followed the workshop procedure and when I got it almost 
> perfect added/subtracted shims and spun the hub by hand, feeling for 
> drag until I was satisfied that the bearings were running free, but 
> that there was absolutely no end- play in them.  Some people use a 
> dial gauge to measure end-float, but I think it is unnecessary and 
> have always (i.e., for over 40 years), done it by feel.   Make sure 
> when you are setting up the bearings that you have some good calipers 
> (i.e., decent metal ones, not plastic), or use a micrometer, to check 
> the shim thicknesses – don’t rely on whatever the package says – 
> measure  them!  Do not grease the bearings when setting them up.  I 
> sprayed mine with some WD40 to provide some lubrication just while 
> setting them up as you should not spin dry bearings, but a very light 
> oil (3 in 1?) would probably be OK.  When you are satisfied with the 
> set up, then disassemble, noting the shims you used, wash out the 
> light oil you used with a solvent, then pack the bearings, install the 
> seal and put it all back together.  Be sure to dry _all _the solvent 
> out of the bearings, preferably using compressed air, but paper towel 
> and perhaps a hair dryer would work,  before packing with grease.
>
> Getting this right is really important as it substantially adds to the 
> strength of the front axle assemble and minimizes cracking and failure 
> of the stub axle.
>
> Put on some music, have a beer, and enjoy it.
>
> Cheers, Mirek
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *Michael MacLean
> *Sent:* September-17-19 4:14 PM
> *To:* Healeys
> *Subject:* [Healeys] 3000 Front Brakes
>
> Can someone post a PDF of a service manual parts breakdown 
> illustration of the front disc brakes of a 3000?  I see the picture in 
> the Moss catalog, but I do not see the way the backplate attaches to 
> the assembly.  Do I even need to attach the backplates?  Right now I 
> have a bare swivel axle and need the assembly order of the brakes and 
> extended splined hub.  As far as I can glean from all the info I have 
> gathered so far, the caliper mounting plate should go on first, then 
> the splined hub and disc assembly. (a major source of apprehension in 
> itself)  After that I can assemble the caliper and brake line 
> connections.  Did I miss something?  That kind of glosses the assembly 
> over.  It's going to be more work than it sounds as I have never done 
> anything other that drum brakes on the front of my Bugeye.  The 
> splined hub installation with the shims and lining up the split pin 
> sound like barrels of fun. It's finally cool enough nights to go back 
> out into my garage and bust some knuckles.
>
> Mike MacLean
>
>

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