[Healeys] 3000 Front Brakes

[Mirek Sharp]

Mike,

 

Yes, you do need the back plate, and I would ensure that the rubber seal that presses onto its inside edge is also in place.  If you don’t have them (they deteriorate over time), they are available from the usual suppliers.  You are right the drawings on assembly are ambiguous – even in the parts book.  I put mine on the way they came off, and it has been five years since I last did them.  I recall it is relatively obvious but I always note the assembly when taking it apart.   I don’t trust my memory to describe it – I will leave that to others.

 

Don’t be intimidated by setting up the front bearings, it really is not that hard at all and  the factory workshop manual provides good guidance.  Norm Nock also has a description in his book “Tech Talk”, which is still available from British Car Specialists.   It is important to have a selection of a few shims handy.  When I last did mine, I followed the workshop procedure and when I got it almost perfect added/subtracted shims and spun the hub by hand, feeling for drag until I was satisfied that the bearings were running free, but that there was absolutely no end- play in them.   Some people use a dial gauge to measure end-float, but I think it is unnecessary and have always (i.e., for over 40 years), done it by feel.   Make sure when you are setting up the bearings that you have some good calipers (i.e., decent metal ones, not plastic), or use a micrometer, to check the shim thicknesses – don’t rely on whatever the package says – measure  them!  Do not grease the bearings when setting them up.  I sprayed mine with some WD40 to provide some lubrication just while setting them up as you should not spin dry bearings, but a very light oil (3 in 1?) would probably be OK.  When you are satisfied with the set up, then disassemble, noting the shims you used, wash out the light oil you used with a solvent, then pack the bearings, install the seal and put it all back together.  Be sure to dry all the solvent out of the bearings, preferably using compressed air, but paper towel and perhaps a hair dryer would work,  before packing with grease. 

 

Getting this right is really important as it substantially adds to the strength of the front axle assemble and minimizes cracking and failure of the stub axle.

 

Put on some music, have a beer, and enjoy it.

 

Cheers,  Mirek

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean
Sent: September-17-19 4:14 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Front Brakes

 

Can someone post a PDF of a service manual parts breakdown illustration of the front disc brakes of a 3000?  I see the picture in the Moss catalog, but I do not see the way the backplate attaches to the assembly.  Do I even need to attach the backplates?  Right now I have a bare swivel axle and need the assembly order of the brakes and extended splined hub.  As far as I can glean from all the info I have gathered so far, the caliper mounting plate should go on first, then the splined hub and disc assembly. (a major source of apprehension in itself)  After that I can assemble the caliper and brake line connections.  Did I miss something?  That kind of glosses the assembly over.  It's going to be more work than it sounds as I have never done anything other that drum brakes on the front of my Bugeye.  The splined hub installation with the shims and lining up the split pin sound like barrels of fun. It's finally cool enough nights to go back out into my garage and bust some knuckles.

Mike MacLean

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