[Healeys] 3000 Front Brakes

Tue Sep 17 21:27:19 MDT 2019

"... disk brakes are substantially different to work on than drums  ..."

ARGH ... should be 'substantially EASIER to work on than drums ...'

On 9/17/2019 8:21 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> OK, I just had a panic attack as I didn't remember any 'rubber seal 
> that presses onto its inside edge is also in place.' According to the 
> Moss catalog, at least, the later BJ8s had a backing plate with a 
> smaller cutout that didn't require the seal.  There are other 
> differences between earlier and later '3000s'--not the least the 
> calipers, the pads and the thickness of the rotors--so we might need 
> to be more specific.
>
> My BJ8 has always needed about 0.030" of shims give-or-take through a 
> couple sets of hubs and bearings.  All things considered, disk brakes 
> are substantially different to work on than drums (IMO, of course).
>
> Bob
>
> On 9/17/2019 8:07 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> Yes, you do need the back plate, and I would ensure that the rubber 
>> seal that presses onto its inside edge is also in place.  If you 
>> don’t have them (they deteriorate over time), they are available from 
>> the usual suppliers.  You are right the drawings on assembly are 
>> ambiguous – even in the parts book.  I put mine on the way they came 
>> off, and it has been five years since I last did them.  I recall it 
>> is relatively obvious but I always note the assembly when taking it 
>> apart.   I don’t trust my memory to describe it – I will leave that 
>> to others.
>>
>> Don’t be intimidated by setting up the front bearings, it really is 
>> not that hard at all and  the factory workshop manual provides good 
>> guidance.  Norm Nock also has a description in his book “Tech Talk”, 
>> which is still available from British Car Specialists.   It is 
>> important to have a selection of a few shims handy.  When I last did 
>> mine, I followed the workshop procedure and when I got it almost 
>> perfect added/subtracted shims and spun the hub by hand, feeling for 
>> drag until I was satisfied that the bearings were running free, but 
>> that there was absolutely no end- play in them.   Some people use a 
>> dial gauge to measure end-float, but I think it is unnecessary and 
>> have always (i.e., for over 40 years), done it by feel.   Make sure 
>> when you are setting up the bearings that you have some good calipers 
>> (i.e., decent metal ones, not plastic), or use a micrometer, to check 
>> the shim thicknesses – don’t rely on whatever the package says – 
>> measure  them!  Do not grease the bearings when setting them up.  I 
>> sprayed mine with some WD40 to provide some lubrication just while 
>> setting them up as you should not spin dry bearings, but a very light 
>> oil (3 in 1?) would probably be OK.  When you are satisfied with the 
>> set up, then disassemble, noting the shims you used, wash out the 
>> light oil you used with a solvent, then pack the bearings, install 
>> the seal and put it all back together.  Be sure to dry _all _the 
>> solvent out of the bearings, preferably using compressed air, but 
>> paper towel and perhaps a hair dryer would work,  before packing with 
>> grease.
>>
>> Getting this right is really important as it substantially adds to 
>> the strength of the front axle assemble and minimizes cracking and 
>> failure of the stub axle.
>>
>> Put on some music, have a beer, and enjoy it.
>>
>> Cheers, Mirek
>>
>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
>> *Michael MacLean
>> *Sent:* September-17-19 4:14 PM
>> *To:* Healeys
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] 3000 Front Brakes
>>
>> Can someone post a PDF of a service manual parts breakdown 
>> illustration of the front disc brakes of a 3000?  I see the picture 
>> in the Moss catalog, but I do not see the way the backplate attaches 
>> to the assembly.  Do I even need to attach the backplates?  Right now 
>> I have a bare swivel axle and need the assembly order of the brakes 
>> and extended splined hub.  As far as I can glean from all the info I 
>> have gathered so far, the caliper mounting plate should go on first, 
>> then the splined hub and disc assembly. (a major source of 
>> apprehension in itself)  After that I can assemble the caliper and 
>> brake line connections. Did I miss something?  That kind of glosses 
>> the assembly over.  It's going to be more work than it sounds as I 
>> have never done anything other that drum brakes on the front of my 
>> Bugeye.  The splined hub installation with the shims and lining up 
>> the split pin sound like barrels of fun. It's finally cool enough 
>> nights to go back out into my garage and bust some knuckles.
>>
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>>
>
>
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