[Healeys] Cold weather work
healeybruce at roadrunner.com
Wed Nov 20 19:51:00 MST 2019
Checking the 6 brass nuts on the flex pipes to manifold are on my annual maintenance checklist. In my experience, they will occasionally work loose. I've not had a problem with the manifolds themselves, which are installed as John describes.
Replacing the choke cable was very straight forward on my BN7 but perhaps access on a BJ8 dash is a bit more restricted. Gentle "S" curves are the key. Shooting some aerosol lube down the cable couldn't hurt, I would think.
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Vrugtman
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2019 2:05 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cold weather work
As I understand the parts manual when I did mine (always questionable) there are 10 brass nuts and plain washers at all mountings for the exhaust manifold, including the ones that overlap the intake manifold. The intake manifold uses plain washers with spring washers and a steel nut.
Have not had the problem of the downpipes coming loose, but have heard others have; someone may have a solution to that.
As to the choke cable; stiffness on mine was due to the brass cam shoe on the carburetor being very hard to move, cleaning and lube helped there.
On 11/19/2019 4:34 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
> I am starting to do some of the cold weather work on my BJ8 and I have
> 2 questions.
> 1. My choke cable is extremely difficult to pull out, it takes both
> hands on the knob to move the knob out far enough to activate the
> chokes. What is the best/easy way to access the old cable for
> removal? I have a new choke cable to install but how do I route the
> new cable around behind the dash so there are no kinks (I suspect that
> is my current problem) and to avoid the heater/defroster hoses and
> anything else which may be in the way. I would like to get the new
> cable in so that it works smoothly and with just one hand. Should I
> use grease or graphite on the cable to help? Ideas? "I did it this
> way and it worked great." Tips and tricks?
> 2. A couple of months ago, I had an issue with my downpipes that
> came loose from the exhaust manifold. On the down pipes, I removed
> the brass nuts and split washers and replaced them with new stuff.
> Upon close inspection, I now find that the intake and exhaust
> manifolds have also worked loose from the head. However, on the
> manifolds, there is a flat washer against the manifolds, then a split
> washer and then the brass nut. Which is the correct method of
> assembly; flat washer then split washer and brass nut, no split washer
> or no flat washer. Should the downpipes be bolted together the same
> as the exhaust/intake manifolds to the head? What is causing these
> exhaust parts to come loose and what do I do to prevent this from
> happening? What is the thinking of those who have rebuilt engines and
> what has worked?
> Thanks for the collective wisdom here.
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