[Healeys] Which Harness?

[Michael Salter]

 *"According to an article (with a picture) on John Simms website by Rich
Chysler the BN2 had the flasher unit on the inside face of the firewall"*
Yes that is correct for all 100's Michael. There is a grommet through which
the 2/3 wires pass to connect with the flasher unit. I suspect, as flasher
units were pretty new technology at the time, there was some concern as to
their weather or heat resistance.

M

On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 4:27 AM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> According to an article (with a picture) on John Simms website by Rich
> Chysler the BN2 had the flasher unit on the inside face of the firewall.
> Now I'm confused.
> Mike MacLean
>
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> On Thu, Nov 1, 2018 at 11:34 AM, rwilhelmy at sbcglobal.net
> <rwilhelmy at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> couple of easy differences:  BN1 had two relays to control the
> overdrive circuit.  BN2 had one.  BN1 had flasher located under the
> dash where it is almost impossible to access.  BN2 had it on the
> engine side of the firewall.
>
> Nothing wrong with PVC insulation.  Actually the braided stuff had PVC
> or rubber insulation underneath the braids.  Only problem with PVC is
> that the color coding has to be different, which adds to confusion.
>
> Rhode Island Wiring is the gold standard for wiring for Healeys.
> http://www.riwire.com/
> very expensive, but if you go to their website and look for foreign
> cars/Austin-Healey, under BN2 you will find a list of 15 different
> pieces that they offer, two of them are pairs like the headlights.
> Some of them are ground straps.  But several are pretty complex.  This
> should help you figure out what pieces you were given, although some
> wiring providers combined a couple of the harnesses so be prepared for
> that too.
>
> The harnesses connect together with bullet connectors, as you probably
> know.  RI Wiring provides theirs already soldered and crimped in place
> but yours may need to be installed.
>
> Even with RI Wiring's detailed diagrams, I had to lay out the
> harnesses and attach tags to each wire end to sort out what went
> where.  Occasionally you will need 'siamesed' bullet connector sockets
> that allow you to connect three or four wires together.  They are
> available if you don't have them.  Also there is a tool that makes it
> a lot easier to push the bullets into the sockets (but not to get them
> out).  NOS bullets and sockets are best if you can find them.  Be
> prepared for fitting problems with the aftermarket ones, though some
> are better than others.
>
> Make sure you have all of the grommets that you need, especially the
> big one on the firewall that needs special care to feed the harness
> through.  Put the grommet on the harness before you start that part.
>
> Take your time.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Thu, 1 Nov 2018 05:22:25 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:
>
> >     I have a wiring harness that was given to me by a restorer friend
> just before he passed away.  He told me it was a BN2 harness.  It is cloth
> with PVC wires.  The pictures I have of most restorations that clearly show
> the main harness against the firewall are cloth and braid covered wires.  I
> can see the color codes of the braided wires that align with some of the
> PVC wires of my harness, but I seem to have a few extra wires coming out of
> the harness where there should not be any.  How can I tell the difference
> between a BN1 and a BN2 main harness that is cloth and PVC.  There is also
> four smaller harnesses of which I am sure one or more will connect to the
> main harness somewhere.  A little bit more to deal with here than my Bugeye
> that I installed in 2000.Mike MacLean
> >
> >
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