[Healeys] Which Harness?

[Bob Spidell]

Our BN2 has the flasher on the cockpit side of the scuttle and, yes, 
it's a PITA to get to.


On 11/2/2018 1:13 AM, Michael MacLean wrote:
> According to an article (with a picture) on John Simms website by Rich 
> Chysler the BN2 had the flasher unit on the inside face of the 
> firewall.  Now I'm confused.
> Mike MacLean
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>
>     On Thu, Nov 1, 2018 at 11:34 AM, rwilhelmy at sbcglobal.net
>     <rwilhelmy at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>     couple of easy differences:  BN1 had two relays to control the
>     overdrive circuit.  BN2 had one.  BN1 had flasher located under the
>     dash where it is almost impossible to access.  BN2 had it on the
>     engine side of the firewall.
>
>     Nothing wrong with PVC insulation.  Actually the braided stuff had PVC
>     or rubber insulation underneath the braids.  Only problem with PVC is
>     that the color coding has to be different, which adds to confusion.
>
>     Rhode Island Wiring is the gold standard for wiring for Healeys.
>     http://www.riwire.com/
>     very expensive, but if you go to their website and look for foreign
>     cars/Austin-Healey, under BN2 you will find a list of 15 different
>     pieces that they offer, two of them are pairs like the headlights.
>     Some of them are ground straps.  But several are pretty complex.  This
>     should help you figure out what pieces you were given, although some
>     wiring providers combined a couple of the harnesses so be prepared for
>     that too.
>
>     The harnesses connect together with bullet connectors, as you probably
>     know.  RI Wiring provides theirs already soldered and crimped in place
>     but yours may need to be installed.
>
>     Even with RI Wiring's detailed diagrams, I had to lay out the
>     harnesses and attach tags to each wire end to sort out what went
>     where.  Occasionally you will need 'siamesed' bullet connector sockets
>     that allow you to connect three or four wires together. They are
>     available if you don't have them.  Also there is a tool that makes it
>     a lot easier to push the bullets into the sockets (but not to get them
>     out).  NOS bullets and sockets are best if you can find them.  Be
>     prepared for fitting problems with the aftermarket ones, though some
>     are better than others.
>
>     Make sure you have all of the grommets that you need, especially the
>     big one on the firewall that needs special care to feed the harness
>     through.  Put the grommet on the harness before you start that part.
>
>     Take your time.
>
>     -Roland
>
>     On Thu, 1 Nov 2018 05:22:25 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:
>
>     >     I have a wiring harness that was given to me by a restorer
>     friend just before he passed away.  He told me it was a BN2
>     harness.  It is cloth with PVC wires.  The pictures I have of most
>     restorations that clearly show the main harness against the
>     firewall are cloth and braid covered wires.  I can see the color
>     codes of the braided wires that align with some of the PVC wires
>     of my harness, but I seem to have a few extra wires coming out of
>     the harness where there should not be any.  How can I tell the
>     difference between a BN1 and a BN2 main harness that is cloth and
>     PVC.  There is also four smaller harnesses of which I am sure one
>     or more will connect to the main harness somewhere.  A little bit
>     more to deal with here than my Bugeye that I installed in
>     2000.Mike MacLean
>

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