[Healeys] Strange Timing Setting

Oudesluys coudesluijs at chello.nl
Sun Feb 18 02:50:16 MST 2018


It should pump/click every 15s or more. There is always a slight seepage 
through the plastic valves. They are never 100% leak free. If you hear 
it pumping more often the chance is that the seat faces of the valves 
are dirty or corroded. This can usually be remedied by carefully 
removing the valve assemblies, prying out the plastic valves very 
prudently, clean them and clean the faces of the bodies. If very 
corroded the valve assemblies can be renewed. When fitting them back in 
the pump body use new rubber seals (flat rubber rings). If they are not 
available you can usually get away with fitting suitable O-rings.
If the pump is out clean the contact points with a strip of 2000 flower 
paper.
When the points are severely worn, dismantle and rebuild the pump and 
keep the 3-layer membrane if possible as the new single layer membranes 
are of a lesser quality. Be very careful not to damage the thin kevlar 
layer when removing the pump body, separate the layers and rub some 
talcum powder between the layers very sparingly to create a supple 
membrane assembly.
If you follow the SU instruction to the letter the job of rebuilding is 
a piece of cake and should not take more than half an hour. Parts are 
available at the SU dealers. (Google)
Kees Oudesluijs



Op 18-2-2018 om 8:55 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn:
>
> Greetings
>
> Well the cavalry arrived and the engine in the BN3 is now running for 
> the first time in nearly seven years.
>
> If you recall that despite going by the book the rotor button looked 
> to be 120 degrees out.
>
> The solution? Move the geared camshaft/distributor drive about four 
> teeth, put it all back together, press the solenoid and away it went. 
> Good oil pressure and lots of gunk out the exhaust and on to my 
> friend’s E-type. Very pleased!
>
> Now the next question is why does a SU fuel pump keep pumping 
> occasionally with the ignition on even when there are no leaks and the 
> float bowl levels are correct.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *Patrick & Caroline Quinn
> *Sent:* Sunday, 11 February 2018 9:43 AM
> *To:* 'Per Schoerner'
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Strange Timing Setting
>
> Hello Per
>
> I thought about that, but as No 1 is at top dead centre when the 
> pointer is towards the notch in the harmonic balancer I can’t see how 
> it can be.
>
> Many thanks
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> *From:*Per Schoerner [mailto:per at schoerner.se]
> *Sent:* Sunday, 11 February 2018 6:18 AM
> *To:* Patrick & Caroline Quinn
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Strange Timing Setting
>
> Patrick
>
> You have installed the cam chain incorrectly. I assume you have the 
> workshop manual. Look in section A.25 for the correct procedure.
>
> Best, Per
>
> Skickat från min iPad
>
>
> 10 feb. 2018 kl. 11:35 skrev Patrick & Caroline Quinn 
> <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au <mailto:p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>>:
>
>     Greetings
>
>     Perhaps someone has come across this before.
>
>     About to start the engine in the BN3 after a complete rebuild. The
>     engine is a very early C-series six-cylinder and the rebuild
>     included new bearings throughout, pistons, sleeves, valves,
>     vernier adjustable timing chain etc.
>
>     When setting the timing all the settings were done by the book.
>     Tappets at 12 thou, the pointer on the timing chain cover is
>     pointing to the notch in the harmonic balancer, the gear shaft
>     drive from the oil pump/camshaft is at 20 to 2 and the offset
>     distributor drive is correct. Number 1 piston is top dead centre
>     and the rocker gear is rocking.
>
>     Imaging please looking down at the open distributor and it’s a
>     clock face. According to the book, the rotor button arm should be
>     at 2 o’clock or firing No 1 spark plug.
>
>     However the rotor button is a 10 o’clock.
>
>     So it’s not 180 degrees out, but 120 degrees.
>
>     Of course you could get around it by changing the spark plug
>     leads, but the result looks untidy. An alternative is to rotate
>     the geared shaft drive clockwise by 120 degrees.
>
>     Any suggestions?
>
>     Thanks
>
>     Patrick Quinn
>
>     Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
>
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