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It should pump/click every 15s or more. There is always a slight
seepage through the plastic valves. They are never 100% leak free.
If you hear it pumping more often the chance is that the seat
faces of the valves are dirty or corroded. This can usually be
remedied by carefully removing the valve assemblies, prying out
the plastic valves very prudently, clean them and clean the faces
of the bodies. If very corroded the valve assemblies can be
renewed. When fitting them back in the pump body use new rubber
seals (flat rubber rings). If they are not available you can
usually get away with fitting suitable O-rings.<br>
If the pump is out clean the contact points with a strip of 2000
flower paper. <br>
When the points are severely worn, dismantle and rebuild the pump
and keep the 3-layer membrane if possible as the new single layer
membranes are of a lesser quality. Be very careful not to damage
the thin kevlar layer when removing the pump body, separate the
layers and rub some talcum powder between the layers very
sparingly to create a supple membrane assembly.<br>
If you follow the SU instruction to the letter the job of
rebuilding is a piece of cake and should not take more than half
an hour. Parts are available at the SU dealers. (Google)<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 18-2-2018 om 8:55 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn:<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Greetings</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Well the cavalry arrived and the
engine in the BN3 is now running for the first time in
nearly seven years.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>If you recall that despite going by
the book the rotor button looked to be 120 degrees out. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>The solution? Move the geared
camshaft/distributor drive about four teeth, put it all back
together, press the solenoid and away it went. Good oil
pressure and lots of gunk out the exhaust and on to my
friend’s E-type. Very pleased!</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Now the next question is why does a
SU fuel pump keep pumping occasionally with the ignition on
even when there are no leaks and the float bowl levels are
correct.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Hoo Roo</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Patrick Quinn</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Blue Mountains, Australia</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
lang="EN-US"> Healeys
[<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of
</b>Patrick & Caroline Quinn<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, 11 February 2018 9:43 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> 'Per Schoerner'<br>
<b>Cc:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Strange Timing Setting</span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Hello Per</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>I thought about that, but as No 1 is
at top dead centre when the pointer is towards the notch in
the harmonic balancer I can’t see how it can be.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Many thanks</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Patrick Quinn</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
lang="EN-US"> Per Schoerner [<a
href="mailto:per@schoerner.se" moz-do-not-send="true">mailto:per@schoerner.se</a>]
<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, 11 February 2018 6:18 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Patrick & Caroline Quinn<br>
<b>Cc:</b> <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Strange Timing Setting</span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Patrick</p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">You have installed the cam chain
incorrectly. I assume you have the workshop manual. Look in
section A.25 for the correct procedure.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Best, Per</p>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">
<p class="MsoNormal">Skickat från min iPad</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br>
10 feb. 2018 kl. 11:35 skrev Patrick & Caroline Quinn
<<a href="mailto:p_cquinn@tpg.com.au"
moz-do-not-send="true">p_cquinn@tpg.com.au</a>>:</p>
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<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Greetings</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Perhaps someone has come across
this before.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>About to start the engine in
the BN3 after a complete rebuild. The engine is a very
early C-series six-cylinder and the rebuild included
new bearings throughout, pistons, sleeves, valves,
vernier adjustable timing chain etc.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>When setting the timing all the
settings were done by the book. Tappets at 12 thou,
the pointer on the timing chain cover is pointing to
the notch in the harmonic balancer, the gear shaft
drive from the oil pump/camshaft is at 20 to 2 and the
offset distributor drive is correct. Number 1 piston
is top dead centre and the rocker gear is rocking.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Imaging please looking down at
the open distributor and it’s a clock face. According
to the book, the rotor button arm should be at 2
o’clock or firing No 1 spark plug.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>However the rotor button is a
10 o’clock.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>So it’s not 180 degrees out,
but 120 degrees.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Of course you could get around
it by changing the spark plug leads, but the result
looks untidy. An alternative is to rotate the geared
shaft drive clockwise by 120 degrees.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Any suggestions?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Thanks</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Patrick Quinn</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Blue Mountains, Australia</span></p>
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