[Healeys] Shims in front hub

[Mirek Sharp]

Hi Tom, The procedures is well described in the factory manual and is as Michael Salter describes.  Dial gauge will be more accurate but in my opinion is not needed for this set-up as it is very easy to detect when the hub is dragging, when it is free (i.e. correct) and when there is end-float.  I recently did mine just using good judgement and it is easy.  Also, I did my set up before packing grease into the bearings to make it easier to detect end-play, HOWEVER, don’t spin the bearings dry.  I used some light oil on them just for the set-up, then when I had it correct, disassembled it all (noting the shims I needed on each side), cleaned the oil out of the bearings, packed them in the time-honoured way by forcing greases in between the rollers, then re-assemble. I can imagine not everyone might agree with me on that point, but I prefer it.  The Manual for my BT7 specifies torqueing the nut to 40-70 ft-lbs.  Since you are tightening the inner races of the inner and outer bearings, the spacer and shims against the inner shoulder on the stub axle to create a rigid inner assembly, the torque is not critical and the wide range allows positioning of the castellated nut to allow insertion of the cotter pin.  It is critical to get this right as it provides substantial support for the stub axles, which are prone to cracking when the bearings are not set up correctly (as we all know).

 

Best, Mirek

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: August-24-18 6:08 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Shims in front hub

 

What's the procedure for determining how (size) shims to put in against the spacer?  Are they for end float?  If so, what is the procedure for measuring end float?

 

tIA

tom

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