[Healeys] Shims in front hub

[BJ8Healeys]

Tom,  the most accurate and quickest way is to use a dial indicator to determine end float.

 

Put in enough shims and torque the nut so that you have movement when you push the wheel inboard and pull it outboard (excessive end float).  Use the dial indicator to measure how much movement there is.  There should be zero end float when the adjustment is correct, so subtract the total thickness of shims as measured by the indicator (if the indicator says there is 0.015" end float, then remove a total of 0.015" from the stack).  When the outer bearing is installed and the nut torqued to 40 - 70 lb-ft there should now be no detectible end float and no drag on the rotation of the wheel.  It's less messy to do this before lubricating the outer bearing, but a light coating of grease to stick them together makes it easier to handle the shims.

 

Now, if you don't have a dial indicator it's trial and error to get the shim stack the right thickness but the end result is no end float with no binding on the wheel rotation when the nut is properly torqued.  If you can't get the nut castellation to line up with the hole in the axle for the cotter pin while staying within the 40 - 70 lb-ft spec, then put a 0.003" shim under the nut and try again.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2018 6:08 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Shims in front hub

 

What's the procedure for determining how (size) shims to put in against the spacer?  Are they for end float?  If so, what is the procedure for measuring end float?

 

tIA

tom

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