[Healeys] [healeys] Cool Running Temperature

Thu Sep 21 08:35:00 MDT 2017

The temp reading on my 100 reads exactly the same....160 on the road...then to 180 (thermostat temp) in traffic etc.

My temp probe on the top tank is stood out a little further than normal as I have a 3000 gauge set up that needed an adaptor.

Sounds pretty normal in traffic, without much air over the sensor area, it goes to steady state.

I have checked temp output with an infrared meter and confirmed that temp at the elbow (thermostat} is indeed 180 when gauge is reading 160.

George Mcharris

________________________________
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Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 6:53 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 297

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (Oudesluys)
   2. Re: Cool Running Temp (Oudesluys)
   3. 1157 positive ground red stop/tail bulbs (mike brooks)
   4. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (Michael MacLean)
   5. Re: LBC, but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes Back:
      Anglo Quirkiness atthe British Invasion of Stowe (Perry)
   6. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
   7. Re: Cool Running Temp (Bob Spidell)
   8. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (Bob Spidell)
   9. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
  10. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (Bob Spidell)
  11. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (Bob Spidell)
  12. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (Michael MacLean)
  13. Rear Slave Cylinder Fitting Kit (Michael MacLean)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 22:38:32 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs
Message-ID: <195b7c98-60ac-67d5-1fb7-089aef13ce50 at chello.nl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

It is easy to remove the base of the bulb and change over the wires.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 20-9-2017 om 18:58 schreef Bob Spidell:
> I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the
> charge/cutoff indicator*--and would like to put them in my
> running/nav/brake lights.? The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157,
> and I've found lots of LED 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg.
> ground and my cars are both pos. ground (and I'm not interested in
> changing to neg. ground).? Anyone found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs
> anywhere? I'm aware you need to increase the load with resistors, or
> change to a solid state flasher.
>
> TIA,
>
> Bob
>
> * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a
> while and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you
> shouldn't do it
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 22:41:45 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cool Running Temp
Message-ID: <687cb602-829f-cb2d-f6c5-08c9beed9d1c at chello.nl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

As the sensor is in the radiator it measures the temp in the top tank
after the thermostat. If the thermostat is working correctly the coolant
temp in the engine should be around the opening temp of the thermostat.

Kees Oudesluijs

Op 20-9-2017 om 16:56 schreef Rossm:
> Gentlemen
> Lots of discussion over the years about reducing the running temp and interior cabin temp. However my question is at the other end of the temp scale. Still making my way home from Monterey and encountering rain and some snow at high altitudes. The temp gauge is dropping down to 120 at speed. Not sure what temp thermostat I am running. The car is a BN6 with the temp sensor in the top of the rad so I would suspect that the thermostat is closed and not circulating through the rad and while the rad is cooling down the engine temp should be higher?
> Ross
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

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------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 20:42:57 +0000 (UTC)
From: mike brooks <hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk>
To: "bspidell at comcast.net" <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 1157 positive ground red stop/tail bulbs
Message-ID: <1451926503.10487671.1505940177692 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Bob
These are available from several sources on uk ebay and elsewhere as BAY15D which AFAIK are equal to 1157. Might be worth googling BAY15D.?
Mike Brooks'56 BN2 Scotland

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 22:08:39 +0000 (UTC)
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
To: "bspidell at comcast.net" <bspidell at comcast.net>,  Healeys
        <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs
Message-ID: <1537973114.535100.1505945319820 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Litezupp.comMike MacLean

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

  On Wed, Sep 20, 2017 at 12:13 PM, Bob Spidell<bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:   I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff
indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights.?
The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED
1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos.
ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).? Anyone
found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere??? I'm aware you need to
increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher.

TIA,

Bob

* anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a while
and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it

_______________________________________________
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 18:26:08 -0400
From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com>
To: healeylist <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LBC, but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes
        Back: Anglo Quirkiness atthe British Invasion of Stowe
Message-ID: <mailman.7657.1505958787.2379.healeys at autox.team.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Wow?Great to see so many young kids at the show enjoying the car experience.  It renews my enthusiasm for the future of old British cars and their caretakers!
Aloha
Perry
Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: HealeyRick
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 5:34 PM
To: Bob Spidell
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LBC,but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes Back: Anglo Quirkiness atthe British Invasion of Stowe

More Healeys at the Stowe Main St. Block Party which is an absolute blast. (My Nasty Boy makes a brief cameo at 1:27):??https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGjMaUJKIjc? And I've attached some pics?of the "Best of Show" winner, a beautiful Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 (an original GBM car from new) with a stunning oxblood leather interior.

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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 23:17:51 +0000
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK at msn.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>, Healeys
        <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs
Message-ID:
        <MWHPR19MB11188DF5C9F72F4D27A71C0DA5610 at MWHPR19MB1118.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot side (negative in your case) inputs. If one side goes out of balance the current flows from the hot side to the low side and lights the lamp. That means that the polarity changes as conditions change. LEDs are diodes which are polarity sensitive and will not function and will possibly be destroyed by reversed polarity.

Bill Lawrence

BN1 #554

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs

I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff
indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights.
The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED
1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos.
ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).  Anyone
found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere?   I'm aware you need to
increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher.

TIA,

Bob

* anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?  I ran one for a while
and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

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The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ...

Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 16:19:41 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cool Running Temp
Message-ID: <4847ec38-0ba5-7869-e9fb-53ae49c43153 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

On cool days both my BN2 and BJ8 will run at 160F or less on the
highway, but display the usual heating behavior in stop-and-go traffic.?
Both have tested thermostats.? I have no explanation.

Bob

On 9/20/2017 7:56 AM, Rossm wrote:
> Gentlemen
> Lots of discussion over the years about reducing the running temp and interior cabin temp. However my question is at the other end of the temp scale. Still making my way home from Monterey and encountering rain and some snow at high altitudes. The temp gauge is dropping down to 120 at speed. Not sure what temp thermostat I am running. The car is a BN6 with the temp sensor in the top of the rad so I would suspect that the thermostat is closed and not circulating through the rad and while the rad is cooling down the engine temp should be higher?
> Ross
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 16:21:55 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK at msn.com>, Healeys
        <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs
Message-ID: <6a1bca5c-2978-18f6-cf91-8ebb5b7a12f2 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"

Thanks, Bill.? Makes sense, but I ran with the LED for many hours and it
didn't die.? Maybe I'm more balanced than I thought ;)

On 9/20/2017 4:17 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
>
> The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot side (negative
> in your case) inputs. If one side goes out of balance the current
> flows from the hot side to the low side and lights the lamp. That
> means that the polarity changes as conditions change. LEDs are diodes
> which are polarity sensitive and will not function and
> will?possibly?be destroyed by reversed polarity.
>
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> BN1 #554
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob
> Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM
> *To:* Healeys
> *Subject:* [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs
> I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff
> indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights.
> The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED
> 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos.
> ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground). Anyone
> found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere??? I'm aware you need to
> increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher.
>
> TIA,
>
> Bob
>
> * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a while
> and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it
>

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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 23:26:03 +0000
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK at msn.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>, Healeys
        <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs
Message-ID:
        <MWHPR19MB1118EDA315BDCDD8A94699E6A5610 at MWHPR19MB1118.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

Maybe the voltage differences weren't enough to damage it. And you probably wouldn't notice if it just didn't work at times. It would work as long as the current was flowing in the right direction and with enough voltage to turn it on.

________________________________
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 11:21:55 PM
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE; Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs

Thanks, Bill.  Makes sense, but I ran with the LED for many hours and it didn't die.  Maybe I'm more balanced than I thought ;)

On 9/20/2017 4:17 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:

The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot side (negative in your case) inputs. If one side goes out of balance the current flows from the hot side to the low side and lights the lamp. That means that the polarity changes as conditions change. LEDs are diodes which are polarity sensitive and will not function and will possibly be destroyed by reversed polarity.

Bill Lawrence

BN1 #554

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net><mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net><mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs

I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff
indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights.
The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED
1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos.
ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).  Anyone
found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere?   I'm aware you need to
increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher.

TIA,

Bob

* anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?  I ran one for a while
and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it

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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 16:28:09 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK at msn.com>, Healeys
        <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs
Message-ID: <8410a532-77e6-4c8e-6556-06437a9717a3 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"

Likely--they are diodes after all.

On 9/20/2017 4:26 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
>
> Maybe the voltage differences weren't enough to damage it. And you
> probably wouldn't notice if it just didn't work at times. It would
> work as long as the current was flowing in the right direction and
> with enough voltage to turn it on.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 20, 2017 11:21:55 PM
> *To:* WILLIAM B LAWRENCE; Healeys
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs
>
> Thanks, Bill.? Makes sense, but I ran with the LED for many hours and
> it didn't die.? Maybe I'm more balanced than I thought ;)
>
>
> On 9/20/2017 4:17 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
>>
>> The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot side (negative
>> in your case) inputs. If one side goes out of balance the current
>> flows from the hot side to the low side and lights the lamp. That
>> means that the polarity changes as conditions change. LEDs are diodes
>> which are polarity sensitive and will not function and
>> will?possibly?be destroyed by reversed polarity.
>>
>>
>> Bill Lawrence
>>
>> BN1 #554
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob
>> Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM
>> *To:* Healeys
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs
>> I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff
>> indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights.
>> The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED
>> 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos.
>> ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).? Anyone
>> found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere??? I'm aware you need to
>> increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher.
>>
>> TIA,
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a while
>> and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't
>> do it
>>
>

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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 16:35:40 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: "rrengineer.mike at att.net" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>, Healeys
        <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs
Message-ID: <13045bb0-0824-413c-cca7-6bd6ace16369 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"

Thanks, Mike.? These look pretty solid; methinks--since these is for
nav/stop lights--they should work without resistors?

Are these actually brighter than incandescents?? Are the stop
indications brighter than normal running lights?

Bob

On 9/20/2017 3:08 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
> Litezupp.com
> Mike MacLean
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/mobile/?.src=Android>
>
>     On Wed, Sep 20, 2017 at 12:13 PM, Bob Spidell
>     <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>     I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the
>     charge/cutoff
>     indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake
>     lights.
>     The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED
>     1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are
>     both pos.
>     ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).? Anyone
>     found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere? I'm aware you need to
>     increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher.
>
>     TIA,
>
>     Bob
>
>     * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a
>     while
>     and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you
>     shouldn't do it
>
>
>

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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 23:56:51 +0000 (UTC)
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>, Healeys
        <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs
Message-ID: <1056644260.480691.1505951811196 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I use them in my Bugeye and my Harley Davidson.?? They are very bright.? Without stepping on the brakes the light is brighter than when you step on the brakes with the old incandescent bulbs.? Just make sure you buy white LED lights.? Red will hardly show up with the red lens.? As far as the Harley.? When I go that one the LED was facing the front of the bike.? They had to make one special that was mounted 180 degrees from normal.? I just installed them and they work fine with no resistors.Mike MacLean

    On Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:35 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

  Thanks, Mike.? These look pretty solid; methinks--since these is for nav/stop lights--they should work without resistors??
  Are these actually brighter than incandescents?? Are the stop indications brighter than normal running lights?
  Bob

 On 9/20/2017 3:08 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:

Litezupp.com Mike MacLean

 Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

  On Wed, Sep 20, 2017 at 12:13 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:   I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff
  indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights.?
  The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED
  1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos.
  ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).? Anyone
  found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere??? I'm aware you need to
  increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher.

  TIA,

  Bob

  * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a while
  and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it

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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2017 01:52:46 +0000 (UTC)
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Slave Cylinder Fitting Kit
Message-ID: <1016706400.532905.1505958766227 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I am re-installing the new slave cylinders to the rear backplate.? I bought a cylinder fitting kit from Moss with new locking plates.? This kit is supposed to fit a TR6 and my BN2.? Can someone tell me what the smaller "U" shaped locking plate is for?? There was none when I removed the old locking plates.Mike MacLean

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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