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<p>The temp reading on my 100 reads exactly the same....160 on the road...then to 180 (thermostat temp) in traffic etc.</p>
<p>My temp probe on the top tank is stood out a little further than normal as I have a 3000 gauge set up that needed an adaptor.</p>
<p>Sounds pretty normal in traffic, without much air over the sensor area, it goes to steady state.</p>
<p>I have checked temp output with an infrared meter and confirmed that temp at the elbow (thermostat} is indeed 180 when gauge is reading 160.</p>
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<p>George Mcharris<br>
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<div id="x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font color="#000000" face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt;"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of healeys-request@autox.team.net <healeys-request@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, September 20, 2017 6:53 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> healeys@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 297</font>
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Today's Topics:<br>
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1. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (Oudesluys)<br>
2. Re: Cool Running Temp (Oudesluys)<br>
3. 1157 positive ground red stop/tail bulbs (mike brooks)<br>
4. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (Michael MacLean)<br>
5. Re: LBC, but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes Back:<br>
Anglo Quirkiness atthe British Invasion of Stowe (Perry)<br>
6. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)<br>
7. Re: Cool Running Temp (Bob Spidell)<br>
8. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (Bob Spidell)<br>
9. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)<br>
10. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (Bob Spidell)<br>
11. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (Bob Spidell)<br>
12. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (Michael MacLean)<br>
13. Rear Slave Cylinder Fitting Kit (Michael MacLean)<br>
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----------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
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Message: 1<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 22:38:32 +0200<br>
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs<br>
Message-ID: <195b7c98-60ac-67d5-1fb7-089aef13ce50@chello.nl><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed<br>
<br>
It is easy to remove the base of the bulb and change over the wires.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 20-9-2017 om 18:58 schreef Bob Spidell:<br>
> I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the <br>
> charge/cutoff indicator*--and would like to put them in my <br>
> running/nav/brake lights.? The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, <br>
> and I've found lots of LED 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. <br>
> ground and my cars are both pos. ground (and I'm not interested in <br>
> changing to neg. ground).? Anyone found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs <br>
> anywhere? I'm aware you need to increase the load with resistors, or <br>
> change to a solid state flasher.<br>
><br>
> TIA,<br>
><br>
> Bob<br>
><br>
> * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a <br>
> while and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you <br>
> shouldn't do it<br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
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Message: 2<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 22:41:45 +0200<br>
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cool Running Temp<br>
Message-ID: <687cb602-829f-cb2d-f6c5-08c9beed9d1c@chello.nl><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed<br>
<br>
As the sensor is in the radiator it measures the temp in the top tank <br>
after the thermostat. If the thermostat is working correctly the coolant <br>
temp in the engine should be around the opening temp of the thermostat.<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 20-9-2017 om 16:56 schreef Rossm:<br>
> Gentlemen<br>
> Lots of discussion over the years about reducing the running temp and interior cabin temp. However my question is at the other end of the temp scale. Still making my way home from Monterey and encountering rain and some snow at high altitudes. The temp gauge
is dropping down to 120 at speed. Not sure what temp thermostat I am running. The car is a BN6 with the temp sensor in the top of the rad so I would suspect that the thermostat is closed and not circulating through the rad and while the rad is cooling down
the engine temp should be higher?<br>
> Ross<br>
><br>
> Sent from my iPhone<br>
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<br>
Message: 3<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 20:42:57 +0000 (UTC)<br>
From: mike brooks <hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk><br>
To: "bspidell@comcast.net" <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] 1157 positive ground red stop/tail bulbs<br>
Message-ID: <1451926503.10487671.1505940177692@mail.yahoo.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
These are available from several sources on uk ebay and elsewhere as BAY15D which AFAIK are equal to 1157. Might be worth googling BAY15D.?<br>
Mike Brooks'56 BN2 Scotland<br>
<br>
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android<br>
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Message: 4<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 22:08:39 +0000 (UTC)<br>
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net><br>
To: "bspidell@comcast.net" <bspidell@comcast.net>, Healeys<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs<br>
Message-ID: <1537973114.535100.1505945319820@mail.yahoo.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Litezupp.comMike MacLean<br>
<br>
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android <br>
<br>
On Wed, Sep 20, 2017 at 12:13 PM, Bob Spidell<bspidell@comcast.net> wrote: I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff
<br>
indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights.? <br>
The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED <br>
1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos. <br>
ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).? Anyone <br>
found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere??? I'm aware you need to <br>
increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher.<br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
* anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a while <br>
and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
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Message: 5<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 18:26:08 -0400<br>
From: Perry <healeyguy@aol.com><br>
To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LBC, but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes<br>
Back: Anglo Quirkiness atthe British Invasion of Stowe<br>
Message-ID: <mailman.7657.1505958787.2379.healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Wow?Great to see so many young kids at the show enjoying the car experience. It renews my enthusiasm for the future of old British cars and their caretakers!<br>
Aloha<br>
Perry<br>
Sent from Mail for Windows 10<br>
<br>
From: HealeyRick<br>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 5:34 PM<br>
To: Bob Spidell<br>
Cc: Healeys<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LBC,but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes Back: Anglo Quirkiness atthe British Invasion of Stowe<br>
<br>
More Healeys at the Stowe Main St. Block Party which is an absolute blast. (My Nasty Boy makes a brief cameo at 1:27):??https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGjMaUJKIjc? And I've attached some pics?of the "Best of Show" winner, a beautiful Golden Beige Metallic
BJ8 (an original GBM car from new) with a stunning oxblood leather interior.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 6<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 23:17:51 +0000<br>
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK@msn.com><br>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, Healeys<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<MWHPR19MB11188DF5C9F72F4D27A71C0DA5610@MWHPR19MB1118.namprd19.prod.outlook.com><br>
<br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"<br>
<br>
The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot side (negative in your case) inputs. If one side goes out of balance the current flows from the hot side to the low side and lights the lamp. That means that the polarity changes as conditions change. LEDs
are diodes which are polarity sensitive and will not function and will possibly be destroyed by reversed polarity.<br>
<br>
<br>
Bill Lawrence<br>
<br>
BN1 #554<br>
<br>
________________________________<br>
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM<br>
To: Healeys<br>
Subject: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs<br>
<br>
I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff<br>
indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights.<br>
The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED<br>
1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos.<br>
ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground). Anyone<br>
found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere? I'm aware you need to<br>
increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher.<br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
* anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here? I ran one for a while<br>
and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
Support Team.Net <a id="LPlnk486045" href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" previewremoved="true">
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Message: 7<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 16:19:41 -0700<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cool Running Temp<br>
Message-ID: <4847ec38-0ba5-7869-e9fb-53ae49c43153@comcast.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed<br>
<br>
On cool days both my BN2 and BJ8 will run at 160F or less on the <br>
highway, but display the usual heating behavior in stop-and-go traffic.? <br>
Both have tested thermostats.? I have no explanation.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
On 9/20/2017 7:56 AM, Rossm wrote:<br>
> Gentlemen<br>
> Lots of discussion over the years about reducing the running temp and interior cabin temp. However my question is at the other end of the temp scale. Still making my way home from Monterey and encountering rain and some snow at high altitudes. The temp gauge
is dropping down to 120 at speed. Not sure what temp thermostat I am running. The car is a BN6 with the temp sensor in the top of the rad so I would suspect that the thermostat is closed and not circulating through the rad and while the rad is cooling down
the engine temp should be higher?<br>
> Ross<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 8<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 16:21:55 -0700<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK@msn.com>, Healeys<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs<br>
Message-ID: <6a1bca5c-2978-18f6-cf91-8ebb5b7a12f2@comcast.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
Thanks, Bill.? Makes sense, but I ran with the LED for many hours and it <br>
didn't die.? Maybe I'm more balanced than I thought ;)<br>
<br>
<br>
On 9/20/2017 4:17 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:<br>
><br>
> The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot side (negative <br>
> in your case) inputs. If one side goes out of balance the current <br>
> flows from the hot side to the low side and lights the lamp. That <br>
> means that the polarity changes as conditions change. LEDs are diodes <br>
> which are polarity sensitive and will not function and <br>
> will?possibly?be destroyed by reversed polarity.<br>
><br>
><br>
> Bill Lawrence<br>
><br>
> BN1 #554<br>
><br>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob <br>
> Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM<br>
> *To:* Healeys<br>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs<br>
> I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff<br>
> indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights.<br>
> The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED<br>
> 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos.<br>
> ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground). Anyone<br>
> found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere??? I'm aware you need to<br>
> increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher.<br>
><br>
> TIA,<br>
><br>
> Bob<br>
><br>
> * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a while<br>
> and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it<br>
><br>
<br>
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<br>
Message: 9<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 23:26:03 +0000<br>
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK@msn.com><br>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, Healeys<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<MWHPR19MB1118EDA315BDCDD8A94699E6A5610@MWHPR19MB1118.namprd19.prod.outlook.com><br>
<br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"<br>
<br>
Maybe the voltage differences weren't enough to damage it. And you probably wouldn't notice if it just didn't work at times. It would work as long as the current was flowing in the right direction and with enough voltage to turn it on.<br>
<br>
________________________________<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 11:21:55 PM<br>
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE; Healeys<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs<br>
<br>
<br>
Thanks, Bill. Makes sense, but I ran with the LED for many hours and it didn't die. Maybe I'm more balanced than I thought ;)<br>
<br>
On 9/20/2017 4:17 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:<br>
<br>
The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot side (negative in your case) inputs. If one side goes out of balance the current flows from the hot side to the low side and lights the lamp. That means that the polarity changes as conditions change. LEDs
are diodes which are polarity sensitive and will not function and will possibly be destroyed by reversed polarity.<br>
<br>
<br>
Bill Lawrence<br>
<br>
BN1 #554<br>
<br>
________________________________<br>
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net><mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><mailto:bspidell@comcast.net><br>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM<br>
To: Healeys<br>
Subject: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs<br>
<br>
I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff<br>
indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights.<br>
The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED<br>
1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos.<br>
ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground). Anyone<br>
found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere? I'm aware you need to<br>
increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher.<br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
* anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here? I ran one for a while<br>
and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it<br>
<br>
<br>
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<br>
Message: 10<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 16:28:09 -0700<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK@msn.com>, Healeys<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs<br>
Message-ID: <8410a532-77e6-4c8e-6556-06437a9717a3@comcast.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
Likely--they are diodes after all.<br>
<br>
<br>
On 9/20/2017 4:26 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:<br>
><br>
> Maybe the voltage differences weren't enough to damage it. And you <br>
> probably wouldn't notice if it just didn't work at times. It would <br>
> work as long as the current was flowing in the right direction and <br>
> with enough voltage to turn it on.<br>
><br>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
> *From:* Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 20, 2017 11:21:55 PM<br>
> *To:* WILLIAM B LAWRENCE; Healeys<br>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs<br>
><br>
> Thanks, Bill.? Makes sense, but I ran with the LED for many hours and <br>
> it didn't die.? Maybe I'm more balanced than I thought ;)<br>
><br>
><br>
> On 9/20/2017 4:17 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:<br>
>><br>
>> The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot side (negative <br>
>> in your case) inputs. If one side goes out of balance the current <br>
>> flows from the hot side to the low side and lights the lamp. That <br>
>> means that the polarity changes as conditions change. LEDs are diodes <br>
>> which are polarity sensitive and will not function and <br>
>> will?possibly?be destroyed by reversed polarity.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> Bill Lawrence<br>
>><br>
>> BN1 #554<br>
>><br>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob <br>
>> Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM<br>
>> *To:* Healeys<br>
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs<br>
>> I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff<br>
>> indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights.<br>
>> The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED<br>
>> 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos.<br>
>> ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).? Anyone<br>
>> found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere??? I'm aware you need to<br>
>> increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher.<br>
>><br>
>> TIA,<br>
>><br>
>> Bob<br>
>><br>
>> * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a while<br>
>> and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't <br>
>> do it<br>
>><br>
><br>
<br>
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<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 11<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 16:35:40 -0700<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: "rrengineer.mike@att.net" <rrengineer.mike@att.net>, Healeys<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs<br>
Message-ID: <13045bb0-0824-413c-cca7-6bd6ace16369@comcast.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
Thanks, Mike.? These look pretty solid; methinks--since these is for <br>
nav/stop lights--they should work without resistors?<br>
<br>
Are these actually brighter than incandescents?? Are the stop <br>
indications brighter than normal running lights?<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
On 9/20/2017 3:08 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:<br>
> Litezupp.com<br>
> Mike MacLean<br>
><br>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android <br>
> <<a id="LPlnk582887" href="https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/mobile/?.src=Android" previewremoved="true">https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/mobile/?.src=Android</a>><br>
><br>
> On Wed, Sep 20, 2017 at 12:13 PM, Bob Spidell<br>
> <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:<br>
> I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the<br>
> charge/cutoff<br>
> indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake<br>
> lights.<br>
> The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED<br>
> 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are<br>
> both pos.<br>
> ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).? Anyone<br>
> found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere? I'm aware you need to<br>
> increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher.<br>
><br>
> TIA,<br>
><br>
> Bob<br>
><br>
> * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a<br>
> while<br>
> and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you<br>
> shouldn't do it<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
<br>
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<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 12<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 23:56:51 +0000 (UTC)<br>
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net><br>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, Healeys<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs<br>
Message-ID: <1056644260.480691.1505951811196@mail.yahoo.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
I use them in my Bugeye and my Harley Davidson.?? They are very bright.? Without stepping on the brakes the light is brighter than when you step on the brakes with the old incandescent bulbs.? Just make sure you buy white LED lights.? Red will hardly show up
with the red lens.? As far as the Harley.? When I go that one the LED was facing the front of the bike.? They had to make one special that was mounted 180 degrees from normal.? I just installed them and they work fine with no resistors.Mike MacLean<br>
<br>
<br>
On Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:35 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
Thanks, Mike.? These look pretty solid; methinks--since these is for nav/stop lights--they should work without resistors??
<br>
Are these actually brighter than incandescents?? Are the stop indications brighter than normal running lights?<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
On 9/20/2017 3:08 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:<br>
<br>
Litezupp.com Mike MacLean<br>
<br>
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android <br>
<br>
On Wed, Sep 20, 2017 at 12:13 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote: I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff
<br>
indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights.? <br>
The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED <br>
1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos. <br>
ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).? Anyone <br>
found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere??? I'm aware you need to <br>
increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher.<br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
* anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a while <br>
and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
| | Virus-free. <a id="LPlnk27372" href="http://www.avg.com" previewremoved="true">
www.avg.com</a> |<br>
<br>
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<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 13<br>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2017 01:52:46 +0000 (UTC)<br>
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net><br>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Slave Cylinder Fitting Kit<br>
Message-ID: <1016706400.532905.1505958766227@mail.yahoo.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
I am re-installing the new slave cylinders to the rear backplate.? I bought a cylinder fitting kit from Moss with new locking plates.? This kit is supposed to fit a TR6 and my BN2.? Can someone tell me what the smaller "U" shaped locking plate is for?? There
was none when I removed the old locking plates.Mike MacLean<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android<br>
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