[Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs

[WILLIAM B LAWRENCE]

Maybe the voltage differences weren't enough to damage it. And you probably wouldn't notice if it just didn't work at times. It would work as long as the current was flowing in the right direction and with enough voltage to turn it on.

________________________________
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 11:21:55 PM
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE; Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs


Thanks, Bill.  Makes sense, but I ran with the LED for many hours and it didn't die.  Maybe I'm more balanced than I thought ;)

On 9/20/2017 4:17 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:

The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot side (negative in your case) inputs. If one side goes out of balance the current flows from the hot side to the low side and lights the lamp. That means that the polarity changes as conditions change. LEDs are diodes which are polarity sensitive and will not function and will possibly be destroyed by reversed polarity.


Bill Lawrence

BN1 #554

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net><mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net><mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs

I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff
indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights.
The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED
1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos.
ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).  Anyone
found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere?   I'm aware you need to
increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher.

TIA,

Bob

* anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?  I ran one for a while
and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it


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