[Healeys] Shroud Repair.

Oudesluys coudesluijs at chello.nl
Tue Jul 11 15:14:33 MDT 2017


Jensen had a lot of experience working with aluminium: Austin A40 
Sports, Jensen Interceptor, JNSN lorries and buses, war projects etc. so 
the Austin-Healey was not to much of a challenge for them.
Kees Oudesluijs


Op 11-7-2017 om 21:11 schreef Henry Morrison:
>
> Cool article, I thought I'd seen it all. Interesting to see the 
> fixture they weld into that holds the two pieces of metal perfectly in 
> alignment.
>
>
> Cheers, Henry Morrison
>
>
> Sent from Outlook <http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of 
> HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2017 9:01 AM
> *To:* richard mayor
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair.
> Here's the definitive answer on how shrouds were welded with some 
> great photos, thanks to Larry Varley's site: 
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/jensenweld.html  Argon arc welding 
> using a tungsten electrode ... or as it's known now:  TIG
>
> Happy Healeying,
> Rick Neville
>
> On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 8:50 PM, richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com 
> <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     All the various panels that make up the shroud were TIG welded by
>     Jensen.
>
>     On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 11:23 AM, Henry Morrison
>     <dos_gusanos at msn.com <mailto:dos_gusanos at msn.com>> wrote:
>
>         A gap that big should have a new piece of Aluminum gas welded
>         back in (if you can find the right guy)  then the metal can be
>         hammered back in to shape. TIG weld usually are too hard and
>         crack when worked and tend to get bondo over the tops of
>         them.  I have never seen any "factory applied" filler in any
>         of the cars I have worked on.  I don't believe the BMC factory
>         ever used it.
>
>
>         Cheers,
>
>
>         Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM
>
>
>
>         Sent from Outlook <http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
>
>
>
>         ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>         *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>         <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Keith
>         Pennell <llennep at verizon.net <mailto:llennep at verizon.net>>
>         *Sent:* Saturday, July 8, 2017 8:01 AM
>         *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au <mailto:john at jtkarowe.com.au>;
>         ahbt71 at gmail.com <mailto:ahbt71 at gmail.com>;
>         healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>         *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair.
>         I agree with John.  And don't use fiberglass!!
>
>         Keith
>
>
>         -----Original Message-----
>         From: John Rowe <john at jtkarowe.com.au
>         <mailto:john at jtkarowe.com.au>>
>         To: 'Mike Tobin' <ahbt71 at gmail.com <mailto:ahbt71 at gmail.com>>;
>         healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>         Sent: Sat, Jul 8, 2017 7:00 am
>         Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair.
>
>         Mike, not a job for novices or the faint hearted. You can end
>         up with a big blob of alloy on the floor no matter what
>         welding technique you try. TIG with an alternating current is
>         the only way to go.
>         Bight the bullet and send it to a professional for repair
>         John Rowe
>         Qld Australia
>         *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>         <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net?>] *On Behalf Of *Mike
>         Tobin
>         *Sent:* Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM
>         *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>         *Subject:* [Healeys] Shroud Repair.
>         I've got  a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange
>         bend.  What's the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it
>         myself - just because that's how I'm approaching the restoration.
>         I've got  MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the
>         front shroud  with it.  I also fill a small hole by using a
>         copper spoon behind the hole.  When I was done grinding ithe
>         fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating to use the spoon on a hole
>         this size. The metal is also pretty thin there from corrosian.
>         I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not.
>         I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler
>         I've uncovered on both shrouds.  At first I thought I thought
>         it was damage repair with the first owner, but then I noticed
>         that the reverse sides of the shrouds showed no sign of trauma
>         - the filler was used not to fill but to shape the contour..
>         Cheers and Thanks Again,
>         Mike Tobin
>         Townsend, Montana
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