[Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box

[i erbs]

I don't have my air hoses in place yet, so It is a straight shot to the top
nuts. My mechanic removed mine and cleaned and adjusted the internal
points. It gets rusty in there. So Simon, you might take a look inside once
you get it out and I would bet you will find rust and crud in there. Using
a multi-meter you should be able to check the contacts.

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words

On Wed, Feb 22, 2017 at 7:21 AM, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
wrote:

> Simon,  I’ve had mine out twice, most recently last weekend when I
> replaced it while the engine is out for a rebuild (it was a lot easier to
> sit in the engine bay than reach over!).  Using a long thin flat blade
> screwdriver, loosen the terminals one at a time.  I was perhaps fortunate
> that my wires are basically “trained” to lay in order so keeping them
> straight was not a problem, but if in doubt label them first.  Ira’s
> right—seeing the color codes can be tricky unless everything is really
> clean!    Remove the bottom screw last.  Removing the top 2 screws is the
> problem as they are blocked by the air trunking.  If there is no way to get
> to them from the front, and there probably isn’t, you can drill them out
> through the captive nuts in the wheel well.  Yes, that ruins the nuts, but
> there is an easy solution to that.  Before reinstalling the relay unit, put
> 2 U-type spring clip speed nuts on the flange over the outboard holes.
> Install the bottom machine screw to finger tight to hold the unit in place,
> then use 2 sheet metal screws through the drilled out nuts to secure the
> top.  Or 1 screw—I’m pretty sure 3 screws in that is overkill.  You may
> have to move the unit slightly side to side to line up the holes, but it
> will work fine and is much easier than trying to go in from the front.
>
>
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *i
> erbs
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 21, 2017 9:19 AM
> *To:* Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>
> *Cc:* Pierre Henri Claret <yosmovies at hotmail.fr>; Healey List <
> healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box
>
>
>
> try using a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension with a knuckle in between the
> extensions
>
> I would mark the wires in case the color coding is hard to read.
>
>
> Ira Erbs
>
> Portland,OR
>
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
>
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
>
>
> On Tue, Feb 21, 2017 at 7:30 AM, Simon Lachlan <
> simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote:
>
> My car is RHD so accessing that wretched thing is easy enough by Healey
> standards. Nothing much above it. However it seems that my nephew may have
> to remove his from his LHD ’64 BJ8. So the brake fluid reservoir is in the
> way, plus its pipework and the steering column…..or is that a bit lower?
>
> Anyhow, can one get the 8-way box out without a major kerfuffle or what
> does one have to do? Just grow tiny treble jointed wrists and elbows? The
> usual in fact….
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
>
>
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