[Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket

Bob Spidell bspidell at comcast.net
Sun Feb 12 13:30:10 MST 2017 

No ... I just couldn't get a straight shot to the nut with the impact 
wrench to loosen it.  Once it's loose it'll clear the crossmember; you 
have to lift the engine to get the balancer/pulley off.

bs


On 2/12/2017 10:00 AM, Tom wrote:
>
> So, even if you manage to get the nut loose without lifting the 
> engine, the nut will get stuck on the crossmember as you undo it?
>
> - Tom
>
>
> On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 8:06 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     Did this a couple years ago.  You'll need to pull the radiator,
>     detach the throttle shaft and the OD tie rod, and unbolt the
>     engine mounts (at the bottom). Don't lift at the pan unless you're
>     able to spread the load considerably.
>
>     It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the seal on the
>     crankshaft before tightening the cover bolts.  My engine rebuilder
>     just pointed out to me that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is
>     open to the crankcase; you'll want to use some sort of thread
>     sealant on it.  Unless your cover is perfectly flat you'll want to
>     use some sort of sealant on the gasket.
>
>     The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC it should
>     have been torqued to 150lb-ft.  You have to lift the engine enough
>     for this nut, and whatever tool you use to free it, to clear the
>     crossmember.  I used a 3/4" impact wrench, and couldn't get the
>     socket on straight and ended up mangling the nut pretty bad.
>
>     Bob
>
>
>     On 2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott wrote:
>>     I have to replace the timing chain cover gasket on a 1967 BJ8.
>>     Would someone please tell me how much I have to remove from the
>>     engine to raise it high enough to remove the crankshaft pulley.
>>     Thanks.
>>     Regards,
>>     Charlie
>>
>>     *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>] *On Behalf Of *Simon Lachlan
>>     *Sent:* Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM
>>     *To:* 'Healey List'
>>     *Subject:* [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener
>>
>>     Hi,
>>
>>     I’d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my
>>     fuel gauge. I don’t recall if it was originally posted here or if
>>     I trawled it off the net. I’d made a few notes and filed it
>>     appropriately against some day in the future when I might get
>>     round to actually doing it.
>>
>>     So, my nephew’s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and
>>     this prompted me to dig out the article/notes.
>>
>>     First off, I agree that there’s no sense in putting the capacitor
>>     anywhere near the fuel tank.
>>
>>     Having said that, I read the advice that I’d stored so carefully
>>     and began to wonder if I’d understood it correctly.
>>
>>     Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two
>>     terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it
>>     crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn’t the
>>     fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender
>>     unit and hit the gauge’s terminal T? And wouldn’t those
>>     fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally
>>     unaffected by the capacitor?
>>
>>     Shouldn’t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the
>>     fluctuations cannot bypass it?
>>
>>     Maybe I’m over complicating things and should just try it without
>>     understanding it. Maybe I think too much.
>>
>>     Simon
>>
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