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    <p>No ... I just couldn't get a straight shot to the nut with the
      impact wrench to loosen it.  Once it's loose it'll clear the
      crossmember; you have to lift the engine to get the
      balancer/pulley off.</p>
    <p>bs<br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/12/2017 10:00 AM, Tom wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:CANQM1P+h4q3veyurEFxgx75WBW0CoQVr-h=hEsWrQLG5aOjPFw@mail.gmail.com"
      type="cite">
      <div dir="ltr"><br>
        <div class="gmail_extra">So, even if you manage to get the nut
          loose without lifting the engine, the nut will get stuck on
          the crossmember as you undo it?<br>
          <br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_extra">- Tom<br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_extra"><br>
          <br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_extra">
          <div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 8:06 PM, Bob
            Spidell <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
                href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" target="_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>></span>
            wrote:<br>
            <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
              .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
              <div bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
                <p>Did this a couple years ago.  You'll need to pull the
                  radiator, detach the throttle shaft and the OD tie
                  rod, and unbolt the engine mounts (at the bottom).  
                  Don't lift at the pan unless you're able to spread the
                  load considerably.<br>
                </p>
                <p>It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the
                  seal on the crankshaft before tightening the cover
                  bolts.  My engine rebuilder just pointed out to me
                  that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is open to
                  the crankcase; you'll want to use some sort of thread
                  sealant on it.  Unless your cover is perfectly flat
                  you'll want to use some sort of sealant on the gasket.</p>
                <p>The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC
                  it should have been torqued to 150lb-ft.  You have to
                  lift the engine enough for this nut, and whatever tool
                  you use to free it, to clear the crossmember.  I used
                  a 3/4" impact wrench, and couldn't get the socket on
                  straight and ended up mangling the nut pretty bad.<br>
                </p>
                <p>Bob<br>
                </p>
                <div>
                  <div class="h5"> <br>
                    <div class="m_7670197242756437102moz-cite-prefix">On
                      2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott wrote:<br>
                    </div>
                  </div>
                </div>
                <blockquote type="cite">
                  <div>
                    <div class="h5">
                      <div dir="ltr">
                        <div
                          style="FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:'Calibri';COLOR:#000000">
                          <div><font size="4">I have to replace the
                              timing chain cover gasket on a 1967 BJ8.
                              Would someone please tell me how much I
                              have to remove from the engine to raise it
                              high enough to remove the crankshaft
                              pulley. Thanks.</font></div>
                          <div> </div>
                          <div><font size="4">Regards,</font></div>
                          <div> </div>
                          <div><font size="4">Charlie </font></div>
                          <div
style="FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:"Calibri";FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline">
                            <div style="FONT:10pt tahoma">
                              <div> </div>
                              <div style="BACKGROUND:#f5f5f5">
                                <div
style="FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:"Calibri";FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline"><span></span></div>
                              </div>
                            </div>
                            <div
                              class="m_7670197242756437102WordSection1">
                              <p class="MsoNormal"><span></span> </p>
                              <div>
                                <div style="BORDER-TOP:#b5c4df 1pt
                                  solid;BORDER-RIGHT:medium
                                  none;BORDER-BOTTOM:medium
none;PADDING-BOTTOM:0in;PADDING-TOP:3pt;PADDING-LEFT:0in;BORDER-LEFT:medium
                                  none;PADDING-RIGHT:0in">
                                  <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">From:</span></b><span
style="FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">
                                      Healeys [<a moz-do-not-send="true"
class="m_7670197242756437102moz-txt-link-freetext"
                                        href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"
                                        target="_blank">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.<wbr>team.net</a>]
                                      <b>On Behalf Of </b>Simon Lachlan<br>
                                      <b>Sent:</b> Friday, February 10,
                                      2017 12:47 PM<br>
                                      <b>To:</b> 'Healey List'<br>
                                      <b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Fuel
                                      Gauge dampener</span></p>
                                </div>
                              </div>
                              <p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
                              <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Hi,</span></p>
                              <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">I’d
                                  saved something relating to damping
                                  the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I
                                  don’t recall if it was originally
                                  posted here or if I trawled it off the
                                  net. I’d made a few notes and filed it
                                  appropriately against some day in the
                                  future when I might get round to
                                  actually doing it.</span></p>
                              <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">So,
                                  my nephew’s fuel gauge bounces around
                                  far more than mine and this prompted
                                  me to dig out the article/notes.</span></p>
                              <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">First
                                  off, I agree that there’s no sense in
                                  putting the capacitor anywhere near
                                  the fuel tank.</span></p>
                              <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Having
                                  said that, I read the advice that I’d
                                  stored so carefully and began to
                                  wonder if I’d understood it correctly.
                                </span></p>
                              <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Is
                                  the capacitor really supposed to be
                                  wired across the two terminals on the
                                  gauge? Would it have any effect? To
                                  put it crudely, but in the language
                                  that I can understand, wouldn’t the
                                  fluctuations still come down the
                                  Green/Black wire from the sender unit
                                  and hit the gauge’s terminal T? And
                                  wouldn’t those fluctuations still
                                  register as such on the gauge, totally
                                  unaffected by the capacitor? </span></p>
                              <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Shouldn’t
                                  the capacitor be wired in such a
                                  fashion that the fluctuations cannot
                                  bypass it?</span></p>
                              <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Maybe
                                  I’m over complicating things and
                                  should just try it without
                                  understanding it. Maybe I think too
                                  much.</span></p>
                              <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Simon</span></p>
                            </div>
                            <p> </p>
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