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<p>No ... I just couldn't get a straight shot to the nut with the
impact wrench to loosen it. Once it's loose it'll clear the
crossmember; you have to lift the engine to get the
balancer/pulley off.</p>
<p>bs<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/12/2017 10:00 AM, Tom wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:CANQM1P+h4q3veyurEFxgx75WBW0CoQVr-h=hEsWrQLG5aOjPFw@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite">
<div dir="ltr"><br>
<div class="gmail_extra">So, even if you manage to get the nut
loose without lifting the engine, the nut will get stuck on
the crossmember as you undo it?<br>
<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra">- Tom<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra">
<div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 8:06 PM, Bob
Spidell <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" target="_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
<p>Did this a couple years ago. You'll need to pull the
radiator, detach the throttle shaft and the OD tie
rod, and unbolt the engine mounts (at the bottom).
Don't lift at the pan unless you're able to spread the
load considerably.<br>
</p>
<p>It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the
seal on the crankshaft before tightening the cover
bolts. My engine rebuilder just pointed out to me
that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is open to
the crankcase; you'll want to use some sort of thread
sealant on it. Unless your cover is perfectly flat
you'll want to use some sort of sealant on the gasket.</p>
<p>The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC
it should have been torqued to 150lb-ft. You have to
lift the engine enough for this nut, and whatever tool
you use to free it, to clear the crossmember. I used
a 3/4" impact wrench, and couldn't get the socket on
straight and ended up mangling the nut pretty bad.<br>
</p>
<p>Bob<br>
</p>
<div>
<div class="h5"> <br>
<div class="m_7670197242756437102moz-cite-prefix">On
2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott wrote:<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
<div class="h5">
<div dir="ltr">
<div
style="FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:'Calibri';COLOR:#000000">
<div><font size="4">I have to replace the
timing chain cover gasket on a 1967 BJ8.
Would someone please tell me how much I
have to remove from the engine to raise it
high enough to remove the crankshaft
pulley. Thanks.</font></div>
<div> </div>
<div><font size="4">Regards,</font></div>
<div> </div>
<div><font size="4">Charlie </font></div>
<div
style="FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:"Calibri";FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline">
<div style="FONT:10pt tahoma">
<div> </div>
<div style="BACKGROUND:#f5f5f5">
<div
style="FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:"Calibri";FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline"><span></span></div>
</div>
</div>
<div
class="m_7670197242756437102WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span></span> </p>
<div>
<div style="BORDER-TOP:#b5c4df 1pt
solid;BORDER-RIGHT:medium
none;BORDER-BOTTOM:medium
none;PADDING-BOTTOM:0in;PADDING-TOP:3pt;PADDING-LEFT:0in;BORDER-LEFT:medium
none;PADDING-RIGHT:0in">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">From:</span></b><span
style="FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">
Healeys [<a moz-do-not-send="true"
class="m_7670197242756437102moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"
target="_blank">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.<wbr>team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Simon Lachlan<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Friday, February 10,
2017 12:47 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> 'Healey List'<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Fuel
Gauge dampener</span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Hi,</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">I’d
saved something relating to damping
the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I
don’t recall if it was originally
posted here or if I trawled it off the
net. I’d made a few notes and filed it
appropriately against some day in the
future when I might get round to
actually doing it.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">So,
my nephew’s fuel gauge bounces around
far more than mine and this prompted
me to dig out the article/notes.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">First
off, I agree that there’s no sense in
putting the capacitor anywhere near
the fuel tank.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Having
said that, I read the advice that I’d
stored so carefully and began to
wonder if I’d understood it correctly.
</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Is
the capacitor really supposed to be
wired across the two terminals on the
gauge? Would it have any effect? To
put it crudely, but in the language
that I can understand, wouldn’t the
fluctuations still come down the
Green/Black wire from the sender unit
and hit the gauge’s terminal T? And
wouldn’t those fluctuations still
register as such on the gauge, totally
unaffected by the capacitor? </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Shouldn’t
the capacitor be wired in such a
fashion that the fluctuations cannot
bypass it?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Maybe
I’m over complicating things and
should just try it without
understanding it. Maybe I think too
much.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Simon</span></p>
</div>
<p> </p>
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