[Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket

Sun Feb 12 13:00:08 MST 2017

You can loosen the nut with an open end wrench and engine torque. Once loosened, you can then proceed disconnecting everything and lifting the engine.

John

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 10:00 AM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: Healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket

So, even if you manage to get the nut loose without lifting the engine, the nut will get stuck on the crossmember as you undo it?

- Tom

On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 8:06 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

Did this a couple years ago.  You'll need to pull the radiator, detach the throttle shaft and the OD tie rod, and unbolt the engine mounts (at the bottom).   Don't lift at the pan unless you're able to spread the load considerably.

It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the seal on the crankshaft before tightening the cover bolts.  My engine rebuilder just pointed out to me that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is open to the crankcase; you'll want to use some sort of thread sealant on it.  Unless your cover is perfectly flat you'll want to use some sort of sealant on the gasket.

The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC it should have been torqued to 150lb-ft.  You have to lift the engine enough for this nut, and whatever tool you use to free it, to clear the crossmember.  I used a 3/4" impact wrench, and couldn't get the socket on straight and ended up mangling the nut pretty bad.

Bob

On 2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott wrote:

I have to replace the timing chain cover gasket on a 1967 BJ8. Would someone please tell me how much I have to remove from the engine to raise it high enough to remove the crankshaft pulley. Thanks.

Regards,

Charlie 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener

Hi,

I’d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I don’t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the net. I’d made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in the future when I might get round to actually doing it.

So, my nephew’s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this prompted me to dig out the article/notes.

First off, I agree that there’s no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere near the fuel tank.

Having said that, I read the advice that I’d stored so carefully and began to wonder if I’d understood it correctly. 

Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn’t the fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge’s terminal T? And wouldn’t those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally unaffected by the capacitor? 

Shouldn’t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations cannot bypass it?

Maybe I’m over complicating things and should just try it without understanding it. Maybe I think too much.

Simon

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