[Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket

[Tom]

So, even if you manage to get the nut loose without lifting the engine, the
nut will get stuck on the crossmember as you undo it?

- Tom


On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 8:06 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Did this a couple years ago.  You'll need to pull the radiator, detach the
> throttle shaft and the OD tie rod, and unbolt the engine mounts (at the
> bottom).   Don't lift at the pan unless you're able to spread the load
> considerably.
>
> It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the seal on the
> crankshaft before tightening the cover bolts.  My engine rebuilder just
> pointed out to me that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is open to the
> crankcase; you'll want to use some sort of thread sealant on it.  Unless
> your cover is perfectly flat you'll want to use some sort of sealant on the
> gasket.
>
> The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC it should have been
> torqued to 150lb-ft.  You have to lift the engine enough for this nut, and
> whatever tool you use to free it, to clear the crossmember.  I used a 3/4"
> impact wrench, and couldn't get the socket on straight and ended up
> mangling the nut pretty bad.
>
> Bob
>
> On 2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott wrote:
>
> I have to replace the timing chain cover gasket on a 1967 BJ8. Would
> someone please tell me how much I have to remove from the engine to raise
> it high enough to remove the crankshaft pulley. Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>] *On Behalf Of *Simon Lachlan
> *Sent:* Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM
> *To:* 'Healey List'
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I’d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge.
> I don’t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the
> net. I’d made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in
> the future when I might get round to actually doing it.
>
> So, my nephew’s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this
> prompted me to dig out the article/notes.
>
> First off, I agree that there’s no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere
> near the fuel tank.
>
> Having said that, I read the advice that I’d stored so carefully and began
> to wonder if I’d understood it correctly.
>
> Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on
> the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language
> that I can understand, wouldn’t the fluctuations still come down the
> Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge’s terminal T? And
> wouldn’t those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally
> unaffected by the capacitor?
>
> Shouldn’t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations
> cannot bypass it?
>
> Maybe I’m over complicating things and should just try it without
> understanding it. Maybe I think too much.
>
> Simon
>
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