<div dir="ltr"><br><div class="gmail_extra">So, even if you manage to get the nut loose without lifting the engine, the nut will get stuck on the crossmember as you undo it?<br><br></div><div class="gmail_extra">- Tom<br></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br></div><div class="gmail_extra"><div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 8:06 PM, Bob Spidell <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" target="_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
<p>Did this a couple years ago. You'll need to pull the radiator,
detach the throttle shaft and the OD tie rod, and unbolt the
engine mounts (at the bottom). Don't lift at the pan unless
you're able to spread the load considerably.<br>
</p>
<p>It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the seal on the
crankshaft before tightening the cover bolts. My engine rebuilder
just pointed out to me that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is
open to the crankcase; you'll want to use some sort of thread
sealant on it. Unless your cover is perfectly flat you'll want to
use some sort of sealant on the gasket.</p>
<p>The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC it should
have been torqued to 150lb-ft. You have to lift the engine enough
for this nut, and whatever tool you use to free it, to clear the
crossmember. I used a 3/4" impact wrench, and couldn't get the
socket on straight and ended up mangling the nut pretty bad.<br>
</p>
<p>Bob<br>
</p><div><div class="h5">
<br>
<div class="m_7670197242756437102moz-cite-prefix">On 2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott
wrote:<br>
</div>
</div></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div class="h5">
<div dir="ltr">
<div style="FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:'Calibri';COLOR:#000000">
<div><font size="4">I have to replace the timing chain cover
gasket on a 1967 BJ8. Would someone please tell me how
much I have to remove from the engine to raise it high
enough to remove the crankshaft pulley. Thanks.</font></div>
<div> </div>
<div><font size="4">Regards,</font></div>
<div> </div>
<div><font size="4">Charlie </font></div>
<div style="FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:"Calibri";FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline">
<div style="FONT:10pt tahoma">
<div> </div>
<div style="BACKGROUND:#f5f5f5">
<div style="FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:"Calibri";FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline"><span><u></u><u></u></span></div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="m_7670197242756437102WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span><u></u><u></u></span> </p>
<div>
<div style="BORDER-TOP:#b5c4df 1pt solid;BORDER-RIGHT:medium none;BORDER-BOTTOM:medium none;PADDING-BOTTOM:0in;PADDING-TOP:3pt;PADDING-LEFT:0in;BORDER-LEFT:medium none;PADDING-RIGHT:0in">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">From:</span></b><span style="FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">
Healeys [<a class="m_7670197242756437102moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.<wbr>team.net</a>] <b>On
Behalf Of </b>Simon Lachlan<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> 'Healey List'<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u><u></u> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Hi,<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">I’d saved
something relating to damping the fluctuations in my
fuel gauge. I don’t recall if it was originally posted
here or if I trawled it off the net. I’d made a few
notes and filed it appropriately against some day in
the future when I might get round to actually doing
it.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">So, my nephew’s
fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this
prompted me to dig out the article/notes.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">First off, I agree
that there’s no sense in putting the capacitor
anywhere near the fuel tank.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Having said that,
I read the advice that I’d stored so carefully and
began to wonder if I’d understood it correctly. <u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Is the capacitor
really supposed to be wired across the two terminals
on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it
crudely, but in the language that I can understand,
wouldn’t the fluctuations still come down the
Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the
gauge’s terminal T? And wouldn’t those fluctuations
still register as such on the gauge, totally
unaffected by the capacitor? <u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Shouldn’t the
capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the
fluctuations cannot bypass it?<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Maybe I’m over
complicating things and should just try it without
understanding it. Maybe I think too much.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Simon<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<p>
</p>
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