bspidell at comcast.net
Tue Aug 22 22:30:37 MDT 2017
OK, I finally got off my duff and RTFM'd the Bentley manual; you are
correct that there should be no end float (don't know where I got the
0.003"). Thanks for pointing this out.
On 8/22/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
> For sure a Fairchild A10 would be a blast, but I would need a bigger
> There should be no perceptible end-float in the front hub assemble.
> Follow the factory workshop, or Norm Nock’s guidance if you have his
> tech tips. Set the end-float without any grease in the bearings (and
> therefore leave the oil seal off). I spray a little WD-40 or
> equivalent on the bearing as I can’t bear to spin them when dry, but
> the WD-40 does not interfere with the feel you need to get no
> end-play. On first assembly, leave the shims out and tighten the nut
> while spinning the hub until there is noticeable drag. I like to get
> quite a bit of drag, but without locking it up. This seats the
> bearings. Then disassemble and reassemble, adding and subtracting
> shims until there is no perceptible end-float, but no drag. For those
> of us who do not do it for a living, be patient and go over it several
> times until you are convinced you have it right. Then, take it
> apart, pack the bearings, put the seal in and re-assemble it. The nut
> gets torqued to between 40 and 70 lb/ft (at least for a BT7). I
> always spin the hub while tightening. This will lock the inner
> bearing races, spacer, and shims in compression to the swivel axle (I
> think I mis-spoke and said hub in my previous text). The oil seal
> does not get affected as it is in the hub and turns on the polished
> boss on the swivel axle, not the spacer (which would tear it to bits
> in a few miles).
> Now I want to go searching for Warthog videos.
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of
> *Bob Spidell
> *Sent:* August-22-17 10:43 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shims
> Couple things:
> 1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the spec is
> 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub axles, to allow
> for expansion of the bearings when warm. Please correct me if I'm
> wrong as I'm going into my axles soon.
> 2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks the
> inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin
> 3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)*
> * Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in my
> Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs,
> resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with
> canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course). They
> must have been coming from or going to a nearby airshow. I'm
> thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the keys in ...'
> On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
> “Only” somewhat technical packing pieces? Don’t under-estimate
> their importance. When fully tightened with zero end-float, the
> “tube” created around the stub axle created by putting, inner
> races, spacer, shims, washer and nut into compression against the
> hub act as a structural member and take some of the load off of
> the stub axle, which is prone to cracking if the correct procedure
> is not followed, as we all know.
> If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I will
> re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or creased.
> Also, I try to use the combination of thickest shims I can to
> remove end-float. It should not matter as they are in
> compression, but I had a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket break up
> once with dire consequences. In that application, the
> engineering, in my opinion, is a bit dodgy as the shims were used
> to set end-float on the crank, which I seem to recall was 0.002”.
> I had included a thin shim in the combination and that small
> amount of movement, at engine speeds, was enough to pound the
> thing to pieces. When I rebuild it I worked out the thickness of
> shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one thick shim for
> me. Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but if any of
> you have an A10 ….
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf
> Of *Simon Lachlan
> *Sent:* August-21-17 6:49 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Shims
> With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing
> the bearings in my MkII’s front RHS when winter has set in. (Won’t
> be long!)
> Anyhow, I’ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be
> others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can’t reuse some/all
> of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new ones?
> As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so,
> provided the shims’ metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place,
> the old one will still be good to go??? They’re only somewhat
> technical packing pieces???
> As ever, I stand ready to be corrected.
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