[Healeys] Shims

[Bob Spidell]

OK, I finally got off my duff and RTFM'd the Bentley manual; you are 
correct that there should be no end float (don't know where I got the 
0.003").  Thanks for pointing this out.

Bob


On 8/22/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>
> For sure a Fairchild A10 would be a blast, but I would need a bigger 
> garage.
>
> There should be no perceptible end-float in the front hub assemble. 
> Follow the factory workshop, or Norm Nock’s guidance if you have his 
> tech tips.  Set the end-float without any grease in the bearings (and 
> therefore leave  the oil seal off).  I spray a little WD-40 or 
> equivalent on the bearing as I can’t bear to spin them when dry, but 
> the WD-40 does not interfere with the feel you need to get no 
> end-play.   On first assembly, leave the shims out and tighten the nut 
> while spinning the hub until there is noticeable drag.   I like to get 
> quite a bit of drag, but without locking it up.  This seats the 
> bearings. Then disassemble and reassemble, adding and subtracting 
> shims until there is no perceptible end-float, but no drag.  For those 
> of us who do not do it for a living, be patient and go over it several 
> times until you are convinced you have it right.   Then, take it 
> apart, pack the bearings, put the seal in and re-assemble it.  The nut 
> gets torqued to between 40 and 70 lb/ft (at least for a BT7).  I 
> always spin the hub while tightening.  This will lock the inner 
> bearing races, spacer, and shims in compression to the swivel axle (I 
> think I mis-spoke and said hub in my previous text).  The oil seal 
> does not get affected as it is in the hub and turns on the polished 
> boss on the swivel axle, not the spacer (which would tear it to bits 
> in a few miles).
>
> Now I want to go searching for Warthog videos.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Mirek
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *Bob Spidell
> *Sent:* August-22-17 10:43 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shims
>
> Couple things:
>
> 1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the spec is 
> 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub axles, to allow 
> for expansion of the bearings when warm. Please correct me if I'm 
> wrong as I'm going into my axles soon.
>
> 2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks the 
> inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin
>
> 3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)*
>
> Bob
>
> * Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in my 
> Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs, 
> resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with 
> canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course).  They 
> must have been coming from or going to a nearby airshow.  I'm 
> thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the keys in ...'
>
> On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>
>     “Only” somewhat technical packing pieces?  Don’t under-estimate
>     their importance.  When fully tightened with zero end-float,  the
>     “tube” created around the stub axle created by putting, inner
>     races, spacer, shims, washer and nut into compression against the
>     hub act as a structural member and take some of the load off of
>     the stub axle, which is prone to cracking if the correct procedure
>     is not followed, as we all know.
>
>     If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I will
>     re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or creased. 
>     Also, I try to use the combination of thickest shims I can to
>     remove end-float.  It should not matter as they are in
>     compression, but I had a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket break up
>     once with dire consequences.  In that application,  the
>     engineering, in my opinion, is a bit dodgy as the shims were used
>     to set end-float on the crank, which I seem to recall was 0.002”.
>     I had included a thin shim in the combination and that small
>     amount of movement, at engine speeds, was enough to pound the
>     thing to pieces.  When I rebuild it I worked out the thickness of
>     shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one thick shim for
>     me.  Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but if any of
>     you have an A10 ….
>
>     Mirek
>
>     *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf
>     Of *Simon Lachlan
>     *Sent:* August-21-17 6:49 AM
>     *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     *Subject:* [Healeys] Shims
>
>     Hi,
>
>     With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing
>     the bearings in my MkII’s front RHS when winter has set in. (Won’t
>     be long!)
>
>     Anyhow, I’ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be
>     others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can’t reuse some/all
>     of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new ones?
>
>     As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so,
>     provided the shims’ metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place,
>     the old one will still be good to go??? They’re only somewhat
>     technical packing pieces???
>
>     As ever, I stand ready to be corrected.
>
>     Simon
>
>
>

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