[Healeys] Shims

Wed Aug 23 03:59:43 MDT 2017

After seating the bearings, I'll put too many shims in and measure the 
end float with a dial indicator mounted on the brake rotor with a 
magnetic base.  I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated axle nut, 
that sticks out the hub.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 08/23/2017 12:30 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> OK, I finally got off my duff and RTFM'd the Bentley manual; you are 
> correct that there should be no end float (don't know where I got the 
> 0.003").  Thanks for pointing this out.
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> On 8/22/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>>
>> For sure a Fairchild A10 would be a blast, but I would need a bigger 
>> garage.
>>
>> There should be no perceptible end-float in the front hub assemble. 
>> Follow the factory workshop, or Norm Nock’s guidance if you have his 
>> tech tips.  Set the end-float without any grease in the bearings (and 
>> therefore leave  the oil seal off).  I spray a little WD-40 or 
>> equivalent on the bearing as I can’t bear to spin them when dry, but 
>> the WD-40 does not interfere with the feel you need to get no 
>> end-play.   On first assembly, leave the shims out and tighten the nut 
>> while spinning the hub until there is noticeable drag.   I like to get 
>> quite a bit of drag, but without locking it up.  This seats the 
>> bearings. Then disassemble and reassemble, adding and subtracting 
>> shims until there is no perceptible end-float, but no drag.  For those 
>> of us who do not do it for a living, be patient and go over it several 
>> times until you are convinced you have it right.   Then, take it 
>> apart, pack the bearings, put the seal in and re-assemble it.  The nut 
>> gets torqued to between 40 and 70 lb/ft (at least for a BT7).  I 
>> always spin the hub while tightening.  This will lock the inner 
>> bearing races, spacer, and shims in compression to the swivel axle (I 
>> think I mis-spoke and said hub in my previous text).  The oil seal 
>> does not get affected as it is in the hub and turns on the polished 
>> boss on the swivel axle, not the spacer (which would tear it to bits 
>> in a few miles).
>>
>> Now I want to go searching for Warthog videos.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Mirek
>>
>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
>> *Bob Spidell
>> *Sent:* August-22-17 10:43 AM
>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shims
>>
>> Couple things:
>>
>> 1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the spec is 
>> 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub axles, to allow 
>> for expansion of the bearings when warm. Please correct me if I'm 
>> wrong as I'm going into my axles soon.
>>
>> 2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks the 
>> inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin
>>
>> 3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)*
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> * Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in my 
>> Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs, 
>> resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with 
>> canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course).  They 
>> must have been coming from or going to a nearby airshow.  I'm 
>> thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the keys in ...'
>>
>> On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>>
>>     “Only” somewhat technical packing pieces?  Don’t under-estimate
>>     their importance.  When fully tightened with zero end-float,  the
>>     “tube” created around the stub axle created by putting, inner
>>     races, spacer, shims, washer and nut into compression against the
>>     hub act as a structural member and take some of the load off of
>>     the stub axle, which is prone to cracking if the correct procedure
>>     is not followed, as we all know.
>>
>>     If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I will
>>     re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or creased. 
>>     Also, I try to use the combination of thickest shims I can to
>>     remove end-float.  It should not matter as they are in
>>     compression, but I had a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket break up
>>     once with dire consequences.  In that application,  the
>>     engineering, in my opinion, is a bit dodgy as the shims were used
>>     to set end-float on the crank, which I seem to recall was 0.002”.
>>     I had included a thin shim in the combination and that small
>>     amount of movement, at engine speeds, was enough to pound the
>>     thing to pieces.  When I rebuild it I worked out the thickness of
>>     shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one thick shim for
>>     me.  Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but if any of
>>     you have an A10 ….
>>
>>     Mirek
>>
>>     *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf
>>     Of *Simon Lachlan
>>     *Sent:* August-21-17 6:49 AM
>>     *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     *Subject:* [Healeys] Shims
>>
>>     Hi,
>>
>>     With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing
>>     the bearings in my MkII’s front RHS when winter has set in. (Won’t
>>     be long!)
>>
>>     Anyhow, I’ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be
>>     others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can’t reuse some/all
>>     of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new ones?
>>
>>     As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so,
>>     provided the shims’ metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place,
>>     the old one will still be good to go??? They’re only somewhat
>>     technical packing pieces???
>>
>>     As ever, I stand ready to be corrected.
>>
>>     Simon
>>
>>
>>
> 
> 
> 
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