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<p>OK, I finally got off my duff and RTFM'd the Bentley manual; you
are correct that there should be no end float (don't know where I
got the 0.003"). Thanks for pointing this out.</p>
<p>Bob<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/22/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp
wrote:<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext">For sure a
Fairchild A10 would be a blast, but I would need a bigger
garage.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext">There should
be no perceptible end-float in the front hub assemble.
Follow the factory workshop, or Norm Nock’s guidance if you
have his tech tips. Set the end-float without any grease in
the bearings (and therefore leave the oil seal off). I
spray a little WD-40 or equivalent on the bearing as I can’t
bear to spin them when dry, but the WD-40 does not interfere
with the feel you need to get no end-play. On first
assembly, leave the shims out and tighten the nut while
spinning the hub until there is noticeable drag. I like to
get quite a bit of drag, but without locking it up. This
seats the bearings. Then disassemble and reassemble, adding
and subtracting shims until there is no perceptible
end-float, but no drag. For those of us who do not do it
for a living, be patient and go over it several times until
you are convinced you have it right. Then, take it apart,
pack the bearings, put the seal in and re-assemble it. The
nut gets torqued to between 40 and 70 lb/ft (at least for a
BT7). I always spin the hub while tightening. This will
lock the inner bearing races, spacer, and shims in
compression to the swivel axle (I think I mis-spoke and said
hub in my previous text). The oil seal does not get
affected as it is in the hub and turns on the polished boss
on the swivel axle, not the spacer (which would tear it to
bits in a few miles).<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext">Now I want
to go searching for Warthog videos.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext">Cheers,<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext">Mirek<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowtext"
lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowtext"
lang="EN-US"> Healeys
[<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of
</b>Bob Spidell<br>
<b>Sent:</b> August-22-17 10:43 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Shims<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p>Couple things:<o:p></o:p></p>
<p>1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the
spec is 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub
axles, to allow for expansion of the bearings when warm.
Please correct me if I'm wrong as I'm going into my axles
soon.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p>2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also
locks the inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it
spin<o:p></o:p></p>
<p>3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)*<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt">Bob<br>
<br>
* Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in
my Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling
Warthogs, resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the
ramp, with canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11,
of course). They must have been coming from or going to a
nearby airshow. I'm thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the
keys in ...'<br>
<br>
<o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">“Only” somewhat technical packing
pieces? Don’t under-estimate their importance. When fully
tightened with zero end-float, the “tube” created around
the stub axle created by putting, inner races, spacer,
shims, washer and nut into compression against the hub act
as a structural member and take some of the load off of the
stub axle, which is prone to cracking if the correct
procedure is not followed, as we all know.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">If I do not have the correct new shim
that I need to hand, I will re-use old ones providing they
have not been battered or creased. Also, I try to use the
combination of thickest shims I can to remove end-float. It
should not matter as they are in compression, but I had a
crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket break up once with dire
consequences. In that application, the engineering, in my
opinion, is a bit dodgy as the shims were used to set
end-float on the crank, which I seem to recall was 0.002”.
I had included a thin shim in the combination and that small
amount of movement, at engine speeds, was enough to pound
the thing to pieces. When I rebuild it I worked out the
thickness of shims needed and had a machinist surface grind
one thick shim for me. Not necessary for the Healey wheel
bearings, but if any of you have an A10 ….<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Mirek<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> <o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""
lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""
lang="EN-US"> Healeys [<a
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Simon Lachlan<br>
<b>Sent:</b> August-21-17 6:49 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Shims</span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"> <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Hi,</span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">With reference to
front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing the
bearings in my MkII’s front RHS when winter has set in.
(Won’t be long!)</span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Anyhow, I’ve half a
pack of unused shims left and there will be others in the
hub. Is there any reason why I can’t reuse some/all of the
old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new
ones?</span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">As I see it, we use
the shims to get the correct end float so, provided the
shims’ metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place, the
old one will still be good to go??? They’re only somewhat
technical packing pieces???</span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">As ever, I stand ready
to be corrected.</span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Simon</span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New
Roman","serif""><br>
<br>
<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<pre><o:p> </o:p></pre>
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