[Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight

[Richard Ewald]

Under most conditions a properly torqued bolt won't come loose unless exposed to extreme vibration. Books I have read on race car prep are very down on split lock washers as the authors feel that the bolt has too loosen before the lock washer digs in. They much prefer using Loctite, new locking nuts or if that is not adequate drilled and safety wired hardware. 
Personally I think if you are going to go with lock washers go full Brit style. Bolt, lock washer, flat washer, bracket, shock, bracket, flat washer, lock washer, nut. 
If you use Loctite the surfaces must be absolutely clean. No grease, no rust, no crud built up in the threads. Use a new nut and bolt if possible. Spray the bolt and nut with brake clean just before assembly to make sure everything is clean. Do not use red Loctite, use blue. When properly applied red will tear the threads off a grade 8 bolt (I've done it!). That's a little more staying power than you need. 
Rick


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 3, 2016, at 16:08, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com> wrote:
> 
> Seeking ideas on how to keep the rear shock mount bolts tight.  They work loose every 1,500 to 2,000 miles, and tightening them is routine with my annual maintenance.  I currently have grade 8 bolts, nuts and split washers.  Grade 5 bolts, nuts, and split washers were no worse (or better) than the grade 8.  Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago after someone posted about them on this list.  They loosened more quickly than split washers.  Tried thread locker and nylocks as well, neither of which were better than split washers. 
>  
> Anyone have a method that actually keeps the hardware tight?
>  
> Bruce Steele
> Brea, CA
> 1960 BN7
>  
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