[Healeys] Steering idler bits
ah100register at gmail.com
Thu Aug 4 03:02:26 MDT 2016
My comment is, if there is no obvious wear in the idler: they rarely wear,
is to clean off the external oil and then leave well alone except then use
a grease like material such as Penrite steering box lube to top up.
Oil seals do deteriorate and need replacing from time to time but this is a
big job. You need to have the correct tool to undo the side and cross tube
taper joints. Then remove the idler from the car. Next you will need a very
heavy puller to pull the steering arm from the shaft and 'break' the taper
spline joint. Then you can disassemble the idler and change the oil seal.
The foam rubber dust seal is best kept but it is not that important because
oil soon covers the exposed part of the idler shaft and protects it.
On 3 August 2016 at 19:31, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>
> One for the experts........
> 1) I hope that I’m right in my belief that I’ve labelled the correct
> same parts in the three attached pics??? I ask because they certainly don’t
> look the same; ie if you go from the parts book diagram to the two photos,
> the rubber bush looks to be twice the size and the seal bears very little
> resemblance to that in the diagram.
> 2) Leaving aside that the whole area is covered in oil and filth –
> the residue of a leak incurred while fixing the trafficator – I think we
> can agree that the bush looks pretty well shot?
> 3) Am I right in thinking that the seal and bush function to keep
> oil in as well as dirt out? ie that its condition matters??
> 4) On the assumption that the bush needs replacing and that I’m
> going to do it ASAP, is the seal something that needs to be replaced as
> well or is it reusable?
> 5) Yes, I have a fair collection of manuals to which I always
> refer.......But, is this one of those jobs, simple at first glance, which
> is full of hidden snags? I’ve not seen the dreaded words “Taking special
> tool” but I can’t be surprised any more by the unexpected in Healey land.
> Is this a job requiring big sockets and long bars or is there a hidden snag
> or two?
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