[Healeys] Missing under Load

Thu Jun 4 09:15:17 MDT 2015

You must not use steel core wires with a Pertronix ignition. It can cause intermittent miss fires in ignition. You will need to install a TR6 distributor car and carbon wires.

David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

From: Michael Oritt 
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2015 6:57 AM
To: Oudesluys 
Cc: Austin Healey 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load

Kees--

No doubt you are right. 

Now if I can just figure out a way to shut down the ignition systems of the other cars with which I am racing I will be a consistent winner!

Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 9:50 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

  I would not be surprised at all if ECU's from nearby modern cars can be affected.
  Kees Oudesluijs

  Michael Oritt schreef op 4-6-2015 om 15:37:

    What Michael says is true.

    Here's another one that happened with my Elva Courier race car:  Once while getting ready for a race weekend I switched distributor caps from one that had suppression leads to another that  solid core wires.  As soon as I started the engine the electro-magnetic field managed to turn my video cam, which was hard-wired into the car's 12VDC, off and on randomly.  

    As an experiment I powered the cam from a separate battery and even though it was about 10 feet from the car with no wires whatsoever connecting it to the car the electromagnetic field created by the ignition system still took control of the cam.  

    As soon as I switched back to suppression leads the issue went away.

    Best--Michael Oritt

    On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 8:18 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

      Although I use them myself I do have one caution regarding the use of solid core ignition wires.

      As Michael Oritt discovered in Targa Newfoundland they can play havoc with electronics. We encountered problems with our "wired" intercom and Terratrip rally meter which immediately vanished when we reverted to suppressor leads.

      I have also found that my cell phone will not receive messages or even do GPS navigation while the engine is running in #174 which has completely original 62 year old Lucas ignition components.

      Michael S

      On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 7:20 AM, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote:

        Not 100% sure what you mean by “the advance curves are retained”. In the 123 you can choose your advance curve.

        And I’m sure one of the built in choice approximates to the original.

        And yes(!), I too have a complete Lucas dizzie in my boot. The correct rotor arm, decent old Champion plug caps, bumble bee copper wire. Fitted with a Pertronix. Points also carried on longer expeditions. Belt and braces!!

        Simon

        From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] 
        Sent: 04 June 2015 07:33
        To: Simon Lachlan
        Cc: Bob Spidell; Healey list

        Subject: Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load

        The advantage with Pertonix over 123 is the advance curves are retained and also if your pertronix does fry, keeping points in the boot is easy for a backup.  I have a 123 in my A90 and I keep a full lucas dizzy with attached cam driveshaft in the boot, just in case.  Call me strange.

        On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 1:42 PM, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote:

        Or get a 123Ignition distributor.

        Simon

        From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
        Sent: 04 June 2015 06:09
        To: healeys at autox.team.net
        Subject: Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load

        Agree across-the-board.   Had same problem with suppressor wires; installed copper stranded wires and no problem in 60K miles or so.

        re: "Strongly suggested I install points instead of the Petronics."   Why?  Does he recommend blood-letting and trepanning for headaches?  I know Jeff is an acknowledged expert, but disagree with the points recommendation.  Name a modern manufacturer--they of the 100K mile tuneups--that recommends points?  Have (probably) 80K miles on Pertronix--with OEM Lucas cap and stranded wires--with no ignition issues (save the occasional well-known bad rotor).  If you like changing points every 5K miles, fine, but it's not the solution to every ignition problem.

        You need: OEM Lucas distributor cap (if you can find one), stranded copper wire secondary wires, OEM Lucas suppressor plug caps, good plugs, and a quality rotor.

        Bob

        On 6/3/2015 6:33 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:

          If you are running suppressed modern wires into your standard Lucas cap, you can have huge problems, as the graphite type materials they use in these don't like connecting to the screw connector in the Lucas cap .  You need to use metal core wires, such as bumble bee wire. 

          Also did you check distributor shaft wobble?  If your dizzy bushes are worn, and you have excessive wobble, you could also be having similar problems.

          Lastly, check internal wires/insulating washers in the dizzy make sure it is all kosher.

          On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 9:24 AM, R. Price Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote:

          Took the BJ8 out today.  Changed the plug wire to #6 (there was a visible spark last night).  The car struggled big time  Had to change rotors every 3 miles in order to get the car home.  Driving along and all of a sudden backfire, black smoke, nothing.  Changed the rotor (it was noticeably hot) and got another 2 or 3 miles out of it.  Looked tonight in the dark and the visible spark from number 6 plug was not there.  Talked to Jeff with Advanced Distributors and he suggested it was plug wires.  Strongly suggested I install points instead of the Petronics.  At his suggestion, I checked the ohm reading on the plug wires and they checked out OK.  Still wondering if it could be bad gas, I did add a product called “Heat.”  Supposed to absorb any water that may be in the gas tank.  Not much help, so far.

          I’m waiting for the plug wires and distributor cap from Moss Motors to show up to install them.  Hope that helps but not really convinced it’s the solution.

          Do you guys have any words of wisdom for me?

          Price Lindsay
          67 BJ8

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      -- 

      If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

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