[Healeys] Missing under Load

Thu Jun 4 06:18:01 MDT 2015

Although I use them myself I do have one caution regarding the use of solid
core ignition wires.
As Michael Oritt discovered in Targa Newfoundland they can play havoc with
electronics. We encountered problems with our "wired" intercom and
Terratrip rally meter which immediately vanished when we reverted to
suppressor leads.
I have also found that my cell phone will not receive messages or even do
GPS navigation while the engine is running in #174 which has completely
original 62 year old Lucas ignition components.
Michael S

On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 7:20 AM, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>
wrote:

> Not 100% sure what you mean by “the advance curves are retained”. In the
> 123 you can choose your advance curve.
>
> And I’m sure one of the built in choice approximates to the original.
>
> And yes(!), I too have a complete Lucas dizzie in my boot. The correct
> rotor arm, decent old Champion plug caps, bumble bee copper wire. Fitted
> with a Pertronix. Points also carried on longer expeditions. Belt and
> braces!!
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> *From:* Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com]
> *Sent:* 04 June 2015 07:33
> *To:* Simon Lachlan
> *Cc:* Bob Spidell; Healey list
>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load
>
>
>
> The advantage with Pertonix over 123 is the advance curves are retained
> and also if your pertronix does fry, keeping points in the boot is easy for
> a backup.  I have a 123 in my A90 and I keep a full lucas dizzy with
> attached cam driveshaft in the boot, just in case.  Call me strange.
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 1:42 PM, Simon Lachlan <
> simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote:
>
> Or get a 123Ignition distributor.
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Bob
> Spidell
> *Sent:* 04 June 2015 06:09
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load
>
>
>
> Agree across-the-board.   Had same problem with suppressor wires;
> installed copper stranded wires and no problem in 60K miles or so.
>
>
>
> re: "Strongly suggested I install points instead of the Petronics."
> Why?  Does he recommend blood-letting and trepanning for headaches?  I know
> Jeff is an acknowledged expert, but disagree with the points
> recommendation.  Name a modern manufacturer--they of the 100K mile
> tuneups--that recommends points?  Have (probably) 80K miles on
> Pertronix--with OEM Lucas cap and stranded wires--with no ignition issues
> (save the occasional well-known bad rotor).  If you like changing points
> every 5K miles, fine, but it's not the solution to every ignition problem.
>
> You need: OEM Lucas distributor cap (if you can find one), stranded copper
> wire secondary wires, OEM Lucas suppressor plug caps, good plugs, and a
> quality rotor.
>
> Bob
>
> On 6/3/2015 6:33 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>
> If you are running suppressed modern wires into your standard Lucas cap,
> you can have huge problems, as the graphite type materials they use in
> these don't like connecting to the screw connector in the Lucas cap .  You
> need to use metal core wires, such as bumble bee wire.
>
>
>
> Also did you check distributor shaft wobble?  If your dizzy bushes are
> worn, and you have excessive wobble, you could also be having similar
> problems.
>
>
>
> Lastly, check internal wires/insulating washers in the dizzy make sure it
> is all kosher.
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 9:24 AM, R. Price Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Took the BJ8 out today.  Changed the plug wire to #6 (there was a visible
> spark last night).  The car struggled big time  Had to change rotors every
> 3 miles in order to get the car home.  Driving along and all of a sudden
> backfire, black smoke, nothing.  Changed the rotor (it was noticeably hot)
> and got another 2 or 3 miles out of it.  Looked tonight in the dark and the
> visible spark from number 6 plug was not there.  Talked to Jeff with
> Advanced Distributors and he suggested it was plug wires.  Strongly
> suggested I install points instead of the Petronics.  At his suggestion, I
> checked the ohm reading on the plug wires and they checked out OK.  Still
> wondering if it could be bad gas, I did add a product called “Heat.”
> Supposed to absorb any water that may be in the gas tank.  Not much help,
> so far.
>
> I’m waiting for the plug wires and distributor cap from Moss Motors to
> show up to install them.  Hope that helps but not really convinced it’s the
> solution.
>
> Do you guys have any words of wisdom for me?
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
>
>
>
>
>
>
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-- 
*If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
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