[Healeys] Missing under Load

[Simon Lachlan]

Not 100% sure what you mean by “the advance curves are retained”. In the 123 you can choose your advance curve.

And I’m sure one of the built in choice approximates to the original.

And yes(!), I too have a complete Lucas dizzie in my boot. The correct rotor arm, decent old Champion plug caps, bumble bee copper wire. Fitted with a Pertronix. Points also carried on longer expeditions. Belt and braces!!

Simon

 

From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] 
Sent: 04 June 2015 07:33
To: Simon Lachlan
Cc: Bob Spidell; Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load

 

The advantage with Pertonix over 123 is the advance curves are retained and also if your pertronix does fry, keeping points in the boot is easy for a backup.  I have a 123 in my A90 and I keep a full lucas dizzy with attached cam driveshaft in the boot, just in case.  Call me strange.

 

On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 1:42 PM, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote:

Or get a 123Ignition distributor.

Simon

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: 04 June 2015 06:09
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load

 

Agree across-the-board.   Had same problem with suppressor wires; installed copper stranded wires and no problem in 60K miles or so.



re: "Strongly suggested I install points instead of the Petronics."   Why?  Does he recommend blood-letting and trepanning for headaches?  I know Jeff is an acknowledged expert, but disagree with the points recommendation.  Name a modern manufacturer--they of the 100K mile tuneups--that recommends points?  Have (probably) 80K miles on Pertronix--with OEM Lucas cap and stranded wires--with no ignition issues (save the occasional well-known bad rotor).  If you like changing points every 5K miles, fine, but it's not the solution to every ignition problem.

You need: OEM Lucas distributor cap (if you can find one), stranded copper wire secondary wires, OEM Lucas suppressor plug caps, good plugs, and a quality rotor.

Bob

On 6/3/2015 6:33 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:

If you are running suppressed modern wires into your standard Lucas cap, you can have huge problems, as the graphite type materials they use in these don't like connecting to the screw connector in the Lucas cap .  You need to use metal core wires, such as bumble bee wire. 

 

Also did you check distributor shaft wobble?  If your dizzy bushes are worn, and you have excessive wobble, you could also be having similar problems.

 

Lastly, check internal wires/insulating washers in the dizzy make sure it is all kosher.

 

On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 9:24 AM, R. Price Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote:

Took the BJ8 out today.  Changed the plug wire to #6 (there was a visible spark last night).  The car struggled big time  Had to change rotors every 3 miles in order to get the car home.  Driving along and all of a sudden backfire, black smoke, nothing.  Changed the rotor (it was noticeably hot) and got another 2 or 3 miles out of it.  Looked tonight in the dark and the visible spark from number 6 plug was not there.  Talked to Jeff with Advanced Distributors and he suggested it was plug wires.  Strongly suggested I install points instead of the Petronics.  At his suggestion, I checked the ohm reading on the plug wires and they checked out OK.  Still wondering if it could be bad gas, I did add a product called “Heat.”  Supposed to absorb any water that may be in the gas tank.  Not much help, so far.

I’m waiting for the plug wires and distributor cap from Moss Motors to show up to install them.  Hope that helps but not really convinced it’s the solution.

Do you guys have any words of wisdom for me?

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8

 

 


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