[Healeys] Missing under Load
Alan Seigrist
healey.nut at gmail.com
Thu Jun 4 00:32:33 MDT 2015
The advantage with Pertonix over 123 is the advance curves are retained and
also if your pertronix does fry, keeping points in the boot is easy for a
backup. I have a 123 in my A90 and I keep a full lucas dizzy with attached
cam driveshaft in the boot, just in case. Call me strange.
On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 1:42 PM, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>
wrote:
> Or get a 123Ignition distributor.
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Bob
> Spidell
> *Sent:* 04 June 2015 06:09
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load
>
>
>
> Agree across-the-board. Had same problem with suppressor wires;
> installed copper stranded wires and no problem in 60K miles or so.
>
>
> re: "Strongly suggested I install points instead of the Petronics."
> Why? Does he recommend blood-letting and trepanning for headaches? I know
> Jeff is an acknowledged expert, but disagree with the points
> recommendation. Name a modern manufacturer--they of the 100K mile
> tuneups--that recommends points? Have (probably) 80K miles on
> Pertronix--with OEM Lucas cap and stranded wires--with no ignition issues
> (save the occasional well-known bad rotor). If you like changing points
> every 5K miles, fine, but it's not the solution to every ignition problem.
>
> You need: OEM Lucas distributor cap (if you can find one), stranded copper
> wire secondary wires, OEM Lucas suppressor plug caps, good plugs, and a
> quality rotor.
>
> Bob
>
> On 6/3/2015 6:33 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>
> If you are running suppressed modern wires into your standard Lucas cap,
> you can have huge problems, as the graphite type materials they use in
> these don't like connecting to the screw connector in the Lucas cap . You
> need to use metal core wires, such as bumble bee wire.
>
>
>
> Also did you check distributor shaft wobble? If your dizzy bushes are
> worn, and you have excessive wobble, you could also be having similar
> problems.
>
>
>
> Lastly, check internal wires/insulating washers in the dizzy make sure it
> is all kosher.
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 9:24 AM, R. Price Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Took the BJ8 out today. Changed the plug wire to #6 (there was a visible
> spark last night). The car struggled big time Had to change rotors every
> 3 miles in order to get the car home. Driving along and all of a sudden
> backfire, black smoke, nothing. Changed the rotor (it was noticeably hot)
> and got another 2 or 3 miles out of it. Looked tonight in the dark and the
> visible spark from number 6 plug was not there. Talked to Jeff with
> Advanced Distributors and he suggested it was plug wires. Strongly
> suggested I install points instead of the Petronics. At his suggestion, I
> checked the ohm reading on the plug wires and they checked out OK. Still
> wondering if it could be bad gas, I did add a product called “Heat.”
> Supposed to absorb any water that may be in the gas tank. Not much help,
> so far.
>
> I’m waiting for the plug wires and distributor cap from Moss Motors to
> show up to install them. Hope that helps but not really convinced it’s the
> solution.
>
> Do you guys have any words of wisdom for me?
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
>
>
>
>
>
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