[Healeys] Ah 100 rebuild
bspidell at comcast.net
Thu Apr 23 16:38:26 MDT 2015
I've done exactly one BN2 engine (for a 100M), but I learned a lot. In particular, keep track of what screws, bolts, etc. go where; some of them are them screwball British fine, coarse, Whitworth, etc. In particular, there is one small(er) bolt for the tappet covers that is shorter than the others; I think it's the front/bottom-most. If you use one of the longer ones in that hole it will contact a tappet.
The 100 engine is known for cracked heads; you'll probably want to magnaflux it and maybe the block, too. Variously recommended are the steel head gasket and/or a British gasket 'varnish' that Norman Nock and Roger Moment both recommended. Can't recall the name just now; bet someone on the list knows it. It's something like Wellman's or similar and comes in a white box with blue lettering (Moss sells it). We used a std. copper gasket with this stuff and no leaks after a couple hundred miles.
Otherwise, the rebuild should be pretty straightforward. Rear seal or not is your call, the opinions are mixed. We put one in--machining required--and I think it helps but hasn't stopped leaking from the ream main entirely.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr at cox.net>
To: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2015 3:11:04 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Ah 100 rebuild
We have a BN2 in the shop in for an engine rebuild after spinning #3 rod bearing and tearing some stuff up.
We’ve rebuilt many engines, but this is our first 100-4.
Seems pretty straight forward, but they all have their intricacies.
If anybody has any specific areas to watch for or specific advice related to minimizing leaks (ha-ha) we would greatly appreciate any input.
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
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