[Healeys] Break in procedure

[Richard Collins]

Regards,
Richard C

Sent from iPhone

On Jun 30, 2012, at 12:44 PM, "Richard Collins" <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> Actually this has been a great thread and would be a superb article for the
healey magazine (with photos of course ).
> The rebuild I am attempting is an air cooled 4 cylinder boxer engine from a
1968 912 Porsche. But all comments are applicable.  Fortunately  there are
several good blogs with very detailed how to postings on the web.
> My BN7 doesn't need one yet ( last done back in the early 90's) but IMHO the
use of assembly lube and breaking in processes make a lot of sense to me and I
had no thoughts of doing less.
> Again, another great thread on the Healey board
>
> Regards,
> Richard Of KY
> BN7 #440
>
> Sent from iPhone
>
> On Jun 30, 2012, at 2:37 AM, "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>
>> This will release a can of worms. There are so many opinions and methods on
this.
>>
>> First you have to decide what you want. Pure performance or longevity.
>> I prefer to go for the last.
>> When rebuilding an engine I use plenty of graphite or molybdenum grease on
all moving surfaces except the cylinder walls (if cast iron) which I lubricate
with engine oil. I want the X-cross grooves from honing the bores to remain
intact as these act as small oil reservoirs to lubricate the rings.
>> I fill up with the specified engine oil, mostly 20W50. Start up the engine
without fuel and plugs until there is oil pressure. Fit the plugs, connect the
fuel line and start up. Let idle for a few minutes. Then drive the car gently
in one go for about 50-100miles. Do not exceed 2500rpm and do not accelerate
more than needed. Immediately after the trip change the oil and filter. Drive
the car gently for about another 1000miles change oil and filter, re-torque
the head, set the tappets, check the mixture, check all bolts and nuts and
then start to increase the speeds and loads gradually. It should be run in at
about 5000miles. This way you also preserve the small X-cross grooves in the
bores.
>> This will ensure a lifetime lasting engine.
>>
>> For outright performance/racing this method will not work as you may end up
with an engine that is to tight and may show problems at prolonged high speeds
by overheating and may be piston/cylinder problems.
>> It is also very important who did the machining. It hugely depends on the
tolerances and surface conditions to which the engine parts are machined. If
machined using the original tolerances you can expect less life and running in
is very important. If modern tolerances and surface conditions are used
running in is far less important if at all necessary. But always make sure you
have the first oil and filter changes after 50-100 and 1000miles.
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs