[Healeys] Radiator

[Oudesluys]

In general one can allow some scale on the engine's (block and head)  
internal surfaces without negative effects. It is the sludge that blocks 
galeries or the heavy crusts formed on surfaces when mainly tap water 
has been used instead of coolant that is a problem. This is difficult to 
remove and involves removing all plugs and freeze plugs/discs, boiling 
in caustic soda, metal brushes in all sizes to get in all the nooks and 
crannies and a high pressure cleaner. Sometimes sandblasting may be 
necessary.
In most climates, let alone hot climates, the standard Healey cooling 
system is insufficient for modern traffic, making some "modern" mods, as 
described earlier, desirable.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 21-6-2012 11:51, Chris Dimmock schreef:
> The biggest single issue is scale and rust in the block.
> If you rebuild an engine without cleaning the block - and remember the youngest 3000 block is now 45 years old - and you can't see between the bores - and it isn't new cast iron when you look inside the welch plug holes - then that's the problem before you start.......................................
>
> Sincerely.
> Chris
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 21/06/2012, at 7:02 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>
>> Get the highest cooling capacity core you can get. This enables you to choose a sleeved thermostat that opens at a higher temperature, say 82 degrees C, resulting in a hotter and more efficient running engine. To get the max out of it, do away with the fixed fan and fit an electric fan instead controlled by a thermo-switch that cuts in about 95-100 degrees and cuts out at about 5 degrees over the opening temp of the thermostat. Use a 10lbs pressure cap that seals properly on the radiator and install a proper expansion reservoir.
>> ......................................