[Fot] TR3 front end conversion to TR6 parts: Camber - moving the ball joint inward

[Jack Brooks]

Dan,

 

That is going to be an overly aggressive start point for me, but if I can’t get where I want to go, with simpler mods you may hear from me.

 

Jack

 

From: Dan Cronin [mailto:adcronin at mi.rr.com] 
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2016 1:45 PM
To: davehogye <dlhogye at comcast.net>
Cc: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks at Live.com>; Friends of Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3 front end conversion to TR6 parts: Camber - moving the ball joint inward

 

If anyone is interested, I have a un-used revington unit for sale. 

Sent from my iPhone


On May 21, 2016, at 7:17 AM, davehogye <dlhogye at comcast.net <mailto:dlhogye at comcast.net> > wrote:

Hi Jack,

RevingtonTR sells an adjustable inner fulcrum pin.  I have one on my TR3 and I know of a few others that use it as well.  No cutting and or welding is needed. 

It has been suggested that keeping the upper arms long is beneficial.

 

// Dave H.

 


  _____  


From: "Jack Brooks" <JIBrooks at Live.com <mailto:JIBrooks at live.com> >
To: fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2016 10:34:14 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR3 front end conversion to TR6 parts: Camber - moving the        ball joint inward

 

I am hoping to upgrade the front suspension on my (street/AutoX) TR3 this summer by changing out the upper A-arm, vertical link and trunnion to TR6 parts.  I will use “the” Jag ball joint and shim it as required.  Due to the complexity of shortening the upper A-arm or moving the inner pivot point inward, I am considering welding an extension to the upper A-Arm ball joint mounting tabs on the inside to mount the ball joint further inward and produce a similar result to shortening the A-arm.  I have not removed my TR3 A-Arms yet, but it appears there is room to move the ball joint inward at least an inch in this way.  I know I can’t go as far as those of you who have shortened the upper arms, but it seems like it could be a decent compromise.  I am concerned though, as this seems too easy.  None of you guys have done it. Instead you have shortening the upper arms which, from what I have read, is challenging, as is moving the inner pivot point and retaining substantial structure.

 

So, the question is. . . . . . . Why is simply moving the ball joint further inboard not a good solution?  What am I missing?



 

Thanks in advance,

 

Jack


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