[Fot] TR3 front end conversion to TR6 parts: Camber - moving the ball joint inward

[Dan Cronin]

If anyone is interested, I have a un-used revington unit for sale. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 21, 2016, at 7:17 AM, davehogye <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> Hi Jack,
> RevingtonTR sells an adjustable inner fulcrum pin.  I have one on my TR3 and I know of a few others that use it as well.  No cutting and or welding is needed. 
> It has been suggested that keeping the upper arms long is beneficial.
> 
> // Dave H.
> 
> From: "Jack Brooks" <JIBrooks at Live.com>
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, May 20, 2016 10:34:14 PM
> Subject: [Fot] TR3 front end conversion to TR6 parts: Camber - moving the        ball joint inward
> 
> I am hoping to upgrade the front suspension on my (street/AutoX) TR3 this summer by changing out the upper A-arm, vertical link and trunnion to TR6 parts.  I will use “the” Jag ball joint and shim it as required.  Due to the complexity of shortening the upper A-arm or moving the inner pivot point inward, I am considering welding an extension to the upper A-Arm ball joint mounting tabs on the inside to mount the ball joint further inward and produce a similar result to shortening the A-arm.  I have not removed my TR3 A-Arms yet, but it appears there is room to move the ball joint inward at least an inch in this way.  I know I can’t go as far as those of you who have shortened the upper arms, but it seems like it could be a decent compromise.  I am concerned though, as this seems too easy.  None of you guys have done it. Instead you have shortening the upper arms which, from what I have read, is challenging, as is moving the inner pivot point and retaining substantial structure.
>  
> So, the question is. . . . . . . Why is simply moving the ball joint further inboard not a good solution?  What am I missing?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
>  
> Jack
> 
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