[Roadsters] Clutch pedal bite point adjustment

[RWM]

Thanks, Paul, Peter, and Gordon!

Off to adjust the fork pivot and lock nuts!

- Bob


On 4/4/2017 5:56 AM, Paul Courson wrote:
> There might be some room to move the friction point by adjusting the 
> actuating fork at the slave cylinder. I seem to recall that if there's 
> too much space before the fork (or tang, also called) starts to apply 
> pressure to the slave piston, the pedal's action stays closer to the 
> floor. Conversely, if the adjusting nuts place it too tight, the pedal 
> action remains up high like you're reporting.
>
> There's a further risk under your conditions of never fully releasing 
> the clutch, so it's worth your time to move the lockdown point of the 
> main nut (with the curved side that rests in the tang) and its 
> locknut, and see if that relocates the action.
>
> Paul/Annapolis, Md.
>
> On 4 Apr 2017 12:11 a.m., "rwm--- via Datsun-roadsters" 
> <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
> <mailto:datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Just replaced clutch master, slave, flexible line, return springs,
>     due to deterioration, leaks and fluid contamination. Hardware is
>     Nissan OEM.
>
>     The clutch pedal that since 1980 released and bit in the
>     last/bottom quarter of clutch pedal travel now releases and bites
>     in the first/top quarter.
>
>     How do I adjust the bite point back to what I am accustomed?
>
>     Thanks.
>
>     Bob Mann, ’68 2000 Solex
>
>     Sent from my Windows 10 phone
>
>
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