[6pack] Voltage Stabilizer Questions

[rmf3860 rmf3860]

I have a ‘75 TR6. I just replaced the voltage stabilizer. On the first one
I received from Moss ( Made in China), the mounting bracket that’s spot
welded on the unit literally fell off. I didn’t want to solder it in place
for fear of damaging the electronics and I felt that using epoxy would not
provide proper ground (the unit is grounded through the gauge.) I called
Moss and they sent me a new one and told me to throw the other away. Their
customer service is good, but too many of their parts are made poorly and
cheaply.

Probing the stabilizer in-place is not easy/nearly impossible. Removing the
speedo is pretty straight forward. I can walk you through it if needed.

Once the speedo is even partially out, using your volt meter probes is
doable. Remember to run a ground wire from the stabilizer body to a known
good ground-I just used the battery. Remember that there are two ground
wires that attach to the long screws and shovels and held on with the thumb
screws. If you’ve removed the gauge, this ground wire is no longer
grounding the stabilizer, so running a direct ground is needed.
The ignition needs to be on. On my car, the dark green wires should display
terminal battery voltage. When you probe the light green wire (I) terminal
your meter should read 10 v. I think you already know this. If the
stabilizer performs as described, it’s doing its job.

If your temp is suddenly higher than normal, and for no apparent reason, I
would clean the temp sending unit and the cable that plugs into it, or it
may be a defective/worn out sending unit. The gas gauge is harder to know
where it was from time to time.

Hope this helps.
Bob Fabie




On Wed, Jun 14, 2023 at 1:42 PM dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> As a rule of thumb, Moss parts are crap.  They only buy the cheapest half
> ass stuff they can find.  And if there are issues they tend to ignore
> them.  see if you can find a used one from one of the spares houses.  If
> you need a referral, I have had very good success with several.
>
>
>
> *From:* 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Yahoo
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 14, 2023 10:26 AM
> *To:* 6pack at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [6pack] Voltage Stabilizer Questions
>
>
>
> Hi there.
>
>
>
> My fuel and temp gauges weren't moving so I put in a new voltage
> stabilizer I had on the shelf from sometime in the past. It came in a blue
> box marked British Spares. The gauges read now, but the readings are very
> high compared to before, so problematic.  I laid on my back with the engine
> running and tried to probe the stabilizer with a multimeter, but didn't get
> anywhere.   I can try this again setting myself up better if you can test
> it this way.  I understand the stabilizer's function is to reduce battery
> voltage down to 10v  for the gauges, so I presume you should see 10V on the
> I side.  Masters' electrical book says its not so simple to test
> stabilizers.
>
>
>
> I presume I need to find and install  a different stabilizer?
>
>
>
> I've heard there's issues with the solid state stabilizers
> Moss/BPNW.sell.   Not sure if Moss has rectified the issue.   The Rimmer
> Bros catalog shows one with Caerbont Automotive written on it.  Caerbont
> seems to be the manufacturer of  Smiths instruments nowadays.   Not sure
> which one TRF sells, but they're on backorder there anyway.
>
>
>
> Not fond of working under the dash, but a repeat of a recent job normally
> goes smoother.
>
>
>
> Thank you for your advice,
>
>
>
> Cheers,  Bruce Simms 73 TR6
>
>
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