<div dir="auto">I have a ‘75 TR6. I just replaced the voltage stabilizer. On the first one I received from Moss ( Made in China), the mounting bracket that’s spot welded on the unit literally fell off. I didn’t want to solder it in place for fear of damaging the electronics and I felt that using epoxy would not provide proper ground (the unit is grounded through the gauge.) I called Moss and they sent me a new one and told me to throw the other away. Their customer service is good, but too many of their parts are made poorly and cheaply. </div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">Probing the stabilizer in-place is not easy/nearly impossible. Removing the speedo is pretty straight forward. I can walk you through it if needed. </div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">Once the speedo is even partially out, using your volt meter probes is doable. Remember to run a ground wire from the stabilizer body to a known good ground-I just used the battery. Remember that there are two ground wires that attach to the long screws and shovels and held on with the thumb screws. If you’ve removed the gauge, this ground wire is no longer grounding the stabilizer, so running a direct ground is needed. </div><div dir="auto">The ignition needs to be on. On my car, the dark green wires should display terminal battery voltage. When you probe the light green wire (I) terminal your meter should read 10 v. I think you already know this. If the stabilizer performs as described, it’s doing its job. </div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">If your temp is suddenly higher than normal, and for no apparent reason, I would clean the temp sending unit and the cable that plugs into it, or it may be a defective/worn out sending unit. The gas gauge is harder to know where it was from time to time. </div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">Hope this helps. </div><div dir="auto">Bob Fabie</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Jun 14, 2023 at 1:42 PM dave northrup <<a href="mailto:dave@ranteer.com">dave@ranteer.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204)">
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<p class="MsoNormal">As a rule of thumb, Moss parts are crap. They only buy the cheapest half ass stuff they can find. And if there are issues they tend to ignore them. see if you can find a used one from one of the spares houses. If you need a referral,
I have had very good success with several.<u></u><u></u></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><b>From:</b> 6pack <<a href="mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">6pack-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> <b>On Behalf Of
</b>Yahoo<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, June 14, 2023 10:26 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:6pack@autox.team.net" target="_blank">6pack@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [6pack] Voltage Stabilizer Questions<u></u><u></u></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif">Hi there.<u style="font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u><u style="font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif">My fuel and temp gauges weren't moving so I put in a new voltage stabilizer I had on the shelf from sometime in the past. It came in a blue box marked British Spares. The
gauges read now, but the readings are very high compared to before, so problematic. I laid on my back with the engine running and tried to probe the stabilizer with a multimeter, but didn't get anywhere. I can try this again setting myself up better if
you can test it this way. I understand the stabilizer's function is to reduce battery voltage down to 10v for the gauges, so I presume you should see 10V on the I side. Masters' electrical book says its not so simple to test stabilizers.<u style="font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u><u style="font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif">I presume I need to find and install a different stabilizer?<u style="font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u><u style="font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif">I've heard there's issues with the solid state stabilizers Moss/BPNW.sell. Not sure if Moss has rectified the issue. The Rimmer Bros catalog shows one with Caerbont Automotive
written on it. Caerbont seems to be the manufacturer of Smiths instruments nowadays. Not sure which one TRF sells, but they're on backorder there anyway. <u style="font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u><u style="font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif">Not fond of working under the dash, but a repeat of a recent job normally goes smoother.<u style="font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u><u style="font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif">Thank you for your advice,<u style="font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u><u style="font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif">Cheers, Bruce Simms 73 TR6<u style="font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u><u style="font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></span></p>
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