[6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 54, Issue 9

[Greg Lemon]

I remember my first experience with an inertia switch.  Had a 79 MGB, I
think it dropped off a jack, no damage, but wouldn't start after.
Eventually I read up and found the inertia switch, having always owned 60s
MGs, TRs and Healeys before that, I didn't even know it was a thing.

In the Healey and MG world a lot of armchair and actual mechanic time is
spent trying to make the electric fuel pump reliably go.  I guess now we
have to figure out how to make it stop too.

Actually the inertia switch isn't a bad idea, though as noted the earlier
British sports didn't have them, don't know when MG started, maybe 74, when
a lot of the federal safety standards kicked in?

Greg Lemon
TR250



On Sun, Jul 21, 2019, 2:39 PM Luis via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Nice.  You might want to add an inertia switch in series to turn off power
> to the pump in case of an accident.   The mechanical stops with the engine,
> the electrical won’t.
>
> > On Jul 21, 2019, at 1:00 PM, 6pack-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> >
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> > Today's Topics:
> >
> >   1. An update (Richard Lindsay)
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2019 19:09:36 -0500
> > From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay at gmail.com>
> > To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [6pack] An update
> > Message-ID:
> >    <CAOc+-dxi2MGoRErz8csZOv4_=gpKGpx5tNeUfjTn-Gpb0Qj6pg at mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > Hello Friends,
> >   Today I completed a job on my '75 TR6 project. The new mechanical fuel
> > pump supplied by that company that 'doesn't grow on a rolling stone',
> > failed. Of course, that was no fault of theirs. I just decided to convert
> > the fuel supply to electric, just as I did on my TR3b.
> >   As I began that last parahraph, I replaced the OEM pump with a Facet
> > 476087E solid state pump. That unit makes 4-5.5psi. Just right for a pair
> > of Z-S carbs.
> >   I fashioned an adapter plate from sheet aluminum that covers the port
> on
> > the engine. It then extends up to the right to hold the new pump. I
> placed
> > a gasket between the adapter and the block thereby sealing the block.
> >   I placed an inline filter between the fuel line and the pump's intake
> > port. All of that is 5/16" id plumbing. The pipe up to the carbs is about
> > 1/4" od so I bought a replacement fitting for the pump's output. Once
> > plumbed, all that remained to do was wire the pump.
> >   Fortunately the fuse block has a spare fuse location. I used that
> option
> > to power the new pump. I will later add a relay using the original
> switched
> > power to activate the relay, so as to keep the pump's current load off of
> > the ignition switch.
> >   Long story only slightly longer; The pump works great. There are no
> > leaks. And the car now starts and runs great. Its now ready to head off
> to
> > the painter.
> >
> > Rick
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> > End of 6pack Digest, Vol 54, Issue 9
> > ************************************
>
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