<div dir="auto">I remember my first experience with an inertia switch. Had a 79 MGB, I think it dropped off a jack, no damage, but wouldn't start after. Eventually I read up and found the inertia switch, having always owned 60s MGs, TRs and Healeys before that, I didn't even know it was a thing.<div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">In the Healey and MG world a lot of armchair and actual mechanic time is spent trying to make the electric fuel pump reliably go. I guess now we have to figure out how to make it stop too.</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">Actually the inertia switch isn't a bad idea, though as noted the earlier British sports didn't have them, don't know when MG started, maybe 74, when a lot of the federal safety standards kicked in?</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">Greg Lemon</div><div dir="auto">TR250<br><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Jul 21, 2019, 2:39 PM Luis via 6pack <<a href="mailto:6pack@autox.team.net">6pack@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Nice. You might want to add an inertia switch in series to turn off power to the pump in case of an accident. The mechanical stops with the engine, the electrical won’t. <br>
<br>
> On Jul 21, 2019, at 1:00 PM, <a href="mailto:6pack-request@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">6pack-request@autox.team.net</a> wrote:<br>
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> 1. An update (Richard Lindsay)<br>
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> ----------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
> <br>
> Message: 1<br>
> Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2019 19:09:36 -0500<br>
> From: Richard Lindsay <<a href="mailto:richardolindsay@gmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">richardolindsay@gmail.com</a>><br>
> To: 6pack <<a href="mailto:6pack@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">6pack@autox.team.net</a>><br>
> Subject: [6pack] An update<br>
> Message-ID:<br>
> <CAOc+-dxi2MGoRErz8csZOv4_=<a href="mailto:gpKGpx5tNeUfjTn-Gpb0Qj6pg@mail.gmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">gpKGpx5tNeUfjTn-Gpb0Qj6pg@mail.gmail.com</a>><br>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
> <br>
> Hello Friends,<br>
> Today I completed a job on my '75 TR6 project. The new mechanical fuel<br>
> pump supplied by that company that 'doesn't grow on a rolling stone',<br>
> failed. Of course, that was no fault of theirs. I just decided to convert<br>
> the fuel supply to electric, just as I did on my TR3b.<br>
> As I began that last parahraph, I replaced the OEM pump with a Facet<br>
> 476087E solid state pump. That unit makes 4-5.5psi. Just right for a pair<br>
> of Z-S carbs.<br>
> I fashioned an adapter plate from sheet aluminum that covers the port on<br>
> the engine. It then extends up to the right to hold the new pump. I placed<br>
> a gasket between the adapter and the block thereby sealing the block.<br>
> I placed an inline filter between the fuel line and the pump's intake<br>
> port. All of that is 5/16" id plumbing. The pipe up to the carbs is about<br>
> 1/4" od so I bought a replacement fitting for the pump's output. Once<br>
> plumbed, all that remained to do was wire the pump.<br>
> Fortunately the fuse block has a spare fuse location. I used that option<br>
> to power the new pump. I will later add a relay using the original switched<br>
> power to activate the relay, so as to keep the pump's current load off of<br>
> the ignition switch.<br>
> Long story only slightly longer; The pump works great. There are no<br>
> leaks. And the car now starts and runs great. Its now ready to head off to<br>
> the painter.<br>
> <br>
> Rick<br>
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