[6pack] sealing block instillation difficulties

[Bob Danielson]

 Peter....it might be too late now but Marc GoldBlatt makes a steel front
saddle block so that stripped threads are a thing of the past. You can see
it here http://www.imaconstruction.com/sealingblock.htm  I'd never do
another aluminum one given this option.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of PeterSchop at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2009 8:22 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] sealing block instillation difficulties

With my oil pan off, I decided to replace the front sealing block with the
striped out bolt holes. The PO tried to fix the striped holes with
heli-coils and larger bolts. They held enough that someone was able to crank
down on the bolts hard enough to bend the sealing block thereby causing the
pan to leak more.
 
I ordered a new aluminum sealing block from TRF. It was .060" longed than
the old one so I had to grind it down to size. I tried a dry fit it to the
block. I am having difficulties installing the screws holding it on to the
engine block. I am pushing it against the engine plate and gasket but can
not  get it to go over far enough to align the screw holes. Is there a trick
to this?  I do not want to remove the engine plate. 
 
Also, when I do the final installation, should I use gasket sealer and
where. Maybe a little Hylomar? When I removed the old block, part of the
gasket  on the engine plate pealed off, not much. Once again, I don't want
to remove the  engine plate to replace that gasket. One more thing, I do not
see what the two  small gaskets between the sealing block and engine block
do.
 
Thanks,
 
Peter Schoppelry
'69 TR6
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