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Dave,
When I think back just a month to what I was attempting originally I
feel pretty stupid. Finding that crack up near the diff was really a
stroke of luck because it convinced me to give up on the idea of welding
patches to an already flimsy structure. I feel good about the RATCO Diff
Tower Replacement Kit. It looks very sturdy and the installation has
been much easier than what I had thought it would be early on.
Tim
------ Original Message ------
>From "DAVID MASSEY" <dave1massey@cs.com>
To "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>; "Tim Gaines"
<mtgaines@presby.edu>
Date 3/19/2026 8:42:09 AM
Subject Re: Re[2]: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
>From your pictures it looks like you had a pending diff mount failure
>so no matter what you do about the shocks you needed to address this.
>Big job with the body mounted but it sounds like you have it under
>control.
>
>Good luck.
>
>Dave
>
>
>
>
>On Wednesday, March 18, 2026 at 04:18:05 PM CDT, Tim Gaines
><mtgaines@presby.edu> wrote:
>
>
>
>Dave, I did check the Coil-Over kit, but it looked as if the job would
>be a good deal more demanding than than the one I'm into with the
>replacement cross member. That old cross with the shock mounts would
>have to come out either way, and since I have already refurbished the
>lever shocks, well . . . . I realize that RATCO has improved the
>geometry of the shock system with the Coil-Over compared to the tube
>conversion that probably tore my cross member apart, but it seems to me
>that the design of the original lever shocks is as good or better. The
>ball joint in the levers allows them to follow the arc that describes
>the travel of the rear of the trailing arms (where the levers, or the
>tubes in the conversion, connect) without putting lateral pressure on
>the cross member. That is my thinking anyway.
>
>And for anyone interested in the description of the RATCO Tower Kit
>installation I started last week:
>
>Today was a good day in the garage. After several days with nasty
>weather and then some more with other demands, I lowered the jack under
>the diff so it could move down to its "cradle" formed by the 2 half
>axles and the drive shaft. I then cut through the short welds holding
>the left and right ends of the cross member to the frame rails. I was
>then able to lever the the cross up far enough for its studs to clear
>the diff and then slide the whole cross out.
>
>The photos tell a sad tale:
>(1) Rear side: Some of the metal that connected to the left rail was
>gone and small cracks are above that. I had to (straight) cut those
>connections on the right.
>(2) Rear side again: I had fabricated a patch to replace the missing
>metal in my original (aborted) plan.
>(3) Front side: The unreachable crack that scuttled the original plan.
>
>The new kit has not shipped yet, but I still have some work to do
>anyway. The old welds on the frame I cut today need to be ground
>smooth, and then I need to used a flap wheel on the grinder to get the
>frame clean and shiny for the welds to come.
>
>Tim
>
>------ Original Message ------
>From "DAVID MASSEY" <dave1massey@cs.com>
>To "Stan Foster" <stan@redtr6.com>; "Triumphs"
><triumphs@autox.team.net>; "Tim Gaines" on either<mtgaines@presby.edu>
>Date 3/13/2026 7:20:53 AM
>Subject Re: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
>
>>Here's a thought. Ratco sells a Coil-Over conversion kit that doesn't
>>use the stock shock mounts at all. Have you considered that?
>>
>>Dave
>>
>>
>>On Thursday, March 12, 2026 at 12:06:49 PM CDT, Tim Gaines
>><mtgaines@presby.edu> wrote:
>>
>>
>>It is a stormy where I am, so I'm inside with my laptop instead of
>>under my TR6 working to get that rear shock mount cross member out.
>>Somehow I must have deleted some of this thread, and I don't remember
>>if I ever continued with my "fix" to the problem. I did carry it over
>>to "The Triumph Experience" where I got some more recommendations, and
>>though I was discouraged for a time, I am now very optimistic about my
>>choices.
>>
>>First, I got out the lever shocks that I had removed a couple of
>>decades ago and opened them up and found the cause of their horrible
>>performance. They were filled with grease! I found a Youtube video on
>>the "Yakov's Beauties" site (so many great Triumph jobs there) that
>>showed how to refurbish them. I did what he did and got a similar
>>result where much more force was needed to move the levers. I really
>>think they are going to work as is, but if not I'll get them done by
>>one of the shops mentioned by others here.
>>
>>Second, I did embark on an attempt to weld up and patch the cracks
>>that had appeared on the left side of the cross member (gas tank out
>>of course). I thought I could hold the pieces together with C-clamps
>>and then spot weld them in a few places from underneath, up into the
>>channel. The idea was to then add more to the welds in the channel and
>>then weld patches to the outer surfaces of the channel that I would
>>cut from 14 gauge sheet steel. I did get a couple of spot welds done,
>>but the channel is narrow, the MIG nozzle is pretty wide, and it was
>>very hard to see anything when the nozzle and my hand blocked the
>>light. The killer was my discovery of another crack farther up near
>>the differential that was in an even narrower spot. I called a local
>>welder who was happy to come take a look at the possibility of doing a
>>stick weld up there, but he said there was no way it could be done,
>>and he thought the cracking would spread anyway. Total discouragement
>>at that point because I just couldn't imagine incurring the expense of
>>a frame-off job to install the RATCO Differential Tower replacement
>>after post-Helene clearing and tree work had depleted our accounts.
>>
>>A very helpful post on The Triumph Experience (from Ken D) let me know
>>that the RATCO replacement could be done without removing the frame.
>>"Read the instructions on the RATCO site," he said. I did, and the
>>process sounded very doable, even for this 78 year old. I talked to
>>Bob at RATCO, and got some good advice about carefully checking my
>>frame for rust before proceeding. The cross member set up for lever
>>shocks was not in stock, but it is likely to be shipped next week.
>>Meanwhile I have been busy following the instructions. I'll briefly
>>describe how things have gone for those who might be thinking of the
>>same solution.
>>
>>There was some initial frame prep required that would be very
>>difficult to do without first making room by removing the hubs and
>>half axles from the trailing arms and letting the arms hang lower.
>>Each side has 6 nyloc nuts holding the hub to the cast aluminum
>>trailing arm. All but one of mine came out nicely, but one nut was
>>frozen to its stud, and that stud and nut unit re-tightened after
>>several turns out. It was extremely tight and I feared stripping the
>>aluminum threads in the arm by forcing it out. It took several hours
>>(over a couple of days) of spraying Liquid Wrench, turning back in and
>>then out, tapping the surrounding metal, applying heat with a heat gun
>>(a torch might have been too much for the aluminum) to loosen the nut.
>>It seemed interminable, but I did begin to feel that the nut was
>>backing out a little farther on the stud, and it did finally give
>>leaving the stud and arm threads intact. Whew. Another Yakov video
>>showed how to simply pull out the hubs (no need to do anything with
>>the diff). Mine were stuck, but I borrowed a hub puller with a slide
>>hammer from Advance Auto (payed $175, got it refunded after pulling
>>the hubs in 90 min).
>>
>>I used my little air compression driven grinder with cutting wheel to
>>slice the shock bump stops from the frame sides (to be re-welded later
>>to a frame collar in the RATCO kit). It was a tedious job. I borrowed
>>a friend's Makita electric angle grinder with a 4.5" diameter, .040"
>>thick cutting wheel for the cuts to the old cross member. The cuts on
>>the front side of the old cross member to separate it from the frame
>>were about 6" long and took less than a minute each! The same cuts on
>>the back side of the old cross were hindered by the bottom of the
>>trunk area where the gas tank resides. Only about an inch of the
>>cutting wheel could cut until the body of the angle grinder was
>>blocked from moving farther in. This was incredibly discouraging, and
>>I think it is the only flaw in the instructions provided by RATCO.
>>Maybe there are low profile angle grinders that could work? I finally
>>hit on the idea using my saws-all with a good long Diablo
>>metal-cutting blade (I do have a few of my own tools at hand). It did
>>a good job of cutting the rest of the way and took only a few minutes.
>>I have used a grinding wheel to smooth out the metal left on the frame
>>after some of the cuts, and that has gone well.
>>
>>Yesterday I reinstalled the hubs using just 2 new nyloc nuts on each.
>>The hardest part (not really bad) was sliding the new rubber boots
>>(old ones worn) over the splines in the shafts before pushing them
>>through the trailing arms (held up with a scrap piece of wood). This
>>next is the best thing about the whole job. Tomorrow I plan to place a
>>jack under the diff, remove the 4 nuts holding it to the mounts (2 in
>>the old cross), and then lowering the jack to allow the diff to settle
>>into a cradle of the 2 axles and the drive shaft. The only thing left
>>holding the old cross in place is an easily accessed half inch weld on
>>each frame rail. Should take about a minute to cut through those and
>>then pull out the old cross. There will be more grinding to smooth the
>>frame surface in preparation for the new cross member. That cross will
>>be positioned by slowly jacking the diff back up into the 2 stationary
>>forward mounts and into the mounts on the temporarily movable new
>>cross. Ingenious! At that point my nearby pro welder has agreed to do
>>the welding to the frame.
>>
>>The current price tag on the RATCO kit is $375 plus shipping. The
>>welder charges by the hour, but I don't think it should take too long.
>>Maybe $200 or so there; certainly less than $800 total for the fix.
>>That is more than I thought it would take originally, but this is much
>>better than having an iffy patch job or a car that sits in the garage
>>until . . . ?
>>
>>Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>------ Original Message ------
>>From "Stan Foster" <stan@redtr6.com>
>>To "Tim Gaines" <mtgaines@presby.edu>; "Triumphs"
>><triumphs@autox.team.net>
>>Date 10/8/2025 5:37:30 PM
>>Subject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
>>
>>>I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn
>>>off the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back
>>>to lever arm schocks.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Stan
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tim
>>>Gaines
>>>Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM
>>>To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
>>>Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the
>>>1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I
>>>decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly
>>>when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but
>>>no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up
>>>the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member
>>>had cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on.
>>>I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member
>>>is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount
>>>replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades
>>>ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member.
>>>It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone
>>>through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of
>>>the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few
>>>years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under
>>>a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am
>>>thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is
>>>this really something that can be fixed that way?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>><https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&ut=
m_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient>
>>>
>>>Virus-free.www.avast.com
>>><https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&ut=
m_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>>http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey@cs.com
--
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--------=_MB3BD02C50-0015-43FA-AB44-DB8182C6B9F8
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<html><head><style id=3D"css_styles" type=3D"text/css"><!--blockquote.cite=
{ margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 0px; padding-left: 10px; padding-right:0p=
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le-position: inside;}
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laceholder:before{color:gray; content: '{{ ';} ._em_placeholder:after{color=
:gray; content: ' }}';}
--></style></head><body><div>Dave,</div><div>When I think back just a month =
to what I was attempting originally I feel pretty stupid. Finding that cra=
ck up near the diff was really a stroke of luck because it convinced me to=
give up on the idea of welding patches to an already flimsy structure. I fe=
el good about the RATCO Diff Tower Replacement Kit. It looks very sturdy an=
d the installation has been much easier than what I had thought it would be =
early on.</div><div><br /></div><div>Tim=C2=A0</div>
<div><br /></div>
<div x-em-replyforwardheader=3D""><br /></div>
<div>
<div>------ Original Message ------</div>
<div>From "DAVID MASSEY" <<a href=3D"mailto:dave1massey@cs.com";>dave1mas=
sey@cs.com</a>></div>
<div>To "Triumphs" <<a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@=
autox.team.net</a>>; "Tim Gaines" <<a href=3D"mailto:mtgaines@presby.=
edu">mtgaines@presby.edu</a>></div>
<div>Date 3/19/2026 8:42:09 AM</div>
<div>Subject Re: Re[2]: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break</div></div><div x-e=
m-quote=3D""><br /></div>
<div id=3D"x698eea6c544e41e"><blockquote cite=3D"1067319550.630475.17739241=
29391@mail.yahoo.com" type=3D"cite" class=3D"cite2">
<div class=3D"ydpe37507e5yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family:Arial, Helv=
etica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"fal=
se">From your pictures it looks like you had a pending diff mount failure s=
o no matter what you do about the shocks you needed to address this.=C2=A0=
Big job with the body mounted but it sounds like you have it under control.=
</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br /></div><div dir=3D"ltr" d=
ata-setdir=3D"false">Good luck.</div><div><br /></div><div class=3D"ydpe375=
07e5signature"><div style=3D"color: black; font-style: normal; font-size-ad=
just: none; font-weight: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt; lin=
e-height: normal; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div style=3D=
"color: black; font-style: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-weight: nor=
mal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt; line-height: normal; font-famil=
y: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div><font size=3D"4">Dave <br /></font><=
/div><div><span style=3D"font-size: 10pt; font-family: sans-serif;"><br /><=
/span></div><br /></div></div></div></div>
<div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
=20
</div><div id=3D"ydpf4badd0cyahoo_quoted_4780409176" class=3D"ydpf4=
badd0cyahoo_quoted"><div class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"fon=
t-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
=20
<div class=3D"ydpf4badd0cquoted-text-header">
On Wednesday, March 18, 2026 at 04:18:05 PM CDT, Ti=
m Gaines <mtgaines@presby.edu> wrote:
</div>
</div><div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica=
, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;border-left: 1px solid #cc=
c;padding-left: 8px;margin: 0px 0px 0px 8px" class=3D"ydpf4badd0cinline_rep=
ly_quote_container" data-split-quote-node=3D"true">
<div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<div><div id=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945"><div><div><br cle=
ar=3D"none" /></div>
<div>Dave, I did check the Coil-Over kit, but it looked as if the job would =
be a good deal more demanding than than the one I'm into with the replacem=
ent cross member. That old cross with the shock mounts would have to come o=
ut either way, and since I have already refurbished the lever shocks, well=
=C2=A0 .=C2=A0 .=C2=A0 .=C2=A0 .=C2=A0 I realize that RATCO has improved th=
e geometry of the shock system with the Coil-Over compared to the tube conv=
ersion that probably tore my cross member apart, but it seems to me that th=
e design of the original lever shocks is as good or better. The ball joint=
in the levers allows them to follow the arc that describes the travel of th=
e rear of the trailing arms (where the levers, or the tubes in the conversi=
on, connect) without putting lateral pressure on the cross member. That is=
my thinking anyway.</div><div><br clear=3D"none" /></div><div>And for anyon=
e interested in the description of the RATCO Tower Kit installation I start=
ed last week:</div><div>=C2=A0</div><div>Today was a good day in the garage=
. After several days with nasty weather and then some more with other deman=
ds, I lowered the jack under the diff so it could move down to its "cradle" =
formed by the 2 half axles and the drive shaft. I then cut through the sho=
rt welds holding the left and right ends of the cross member to the frame r=
ails. I was then able to lever the the cross up far enough for its studs to =
clear the diff and then slide the whole cross out.</div><div><br clear=3D"=
none" /></div><div>The photos tell a sad tale:=C2=A0</div><div>(1) Rear sid=
e:=C2=A0 Some of the metal that connected to the left rail was gone and sma=
ll cracks are above that. I had to (straight) cut those connections on the=
right.</div><div>(2) Rear side again:=C2=A0 I had fabricated a patch to rep=
lace the missing metal in my original (aborted) plan.</div><div>(3) Front s=
ide:=C2=A0 The unreachable crack that scuttled the original plan.</div><div=
><br clear=3D"none" /></div><div>The new kit has not shipped yet, but I sti=
ll have some work to do anyway. The old welds on the frame I cut today need =
to be ground smooth, and then I need to used a flap wheel on the grinder t=
o get the frame clean and shiny for the welds to come.=C2=A0</div><div><br=
clear=3D"none" /></div><div>Tim</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none" /></div>
<div id=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945yqt13002" class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044=
945yqt4228942722"><div>
<div>------ Original Message ------</div>
<div>From "DAVID MASSEY" <<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:dave1massey@c=
s.com">dave1massey@cs.com</a>></div>
<div>To "Stan Foster" <<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:stan@redtr6.com"=
>stan@redtr6.com</a>>; "Triumphs" <<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:t=
riumphs@autox.team.net">triumphs@autox.team.net</a>>; "Tim Gaines" on ei=
ther<<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:mtgaines@presby.edu";>mtgaines@pres=
by.edu</a>></div>
<div>Date 3/13/2026 7:20:53 AM</div>
<div>Subject Re: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break</div></div><div><br clear=
=3D"none" /></div>
<div id=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945x09978f85f33443a"><blockquote type=3D"ci=
te" class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945cite2" style=3D"margin-left: 5px; marg=
in-right: 0px; padding-left: 10px; padding-right: 0px; border-left: 1px sol=
id rgb(204, 204, 204); margin-top: 3px; padding-top: 0px;">
<div style=3D"font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" cla=
ss=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp129ed7b5yahoo-style-wrap"><div><div dir=3D=
"ltr">Here's a thought.=C2=A0 Ratco sells a Coil-Over conversion kit that d=
oesn't use the stock shock mounts at all.=C2=A0 Have you considered that?</=
div><div><br clear=3D"none" /></div><div class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945y=
dp129ed7b5signature"><div style=3D"color:black;font-style:normal;font-size-=
adjust:none;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:12pt;line-heig=
ht:normal;font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div style=3D"color:bl=
ack;font-style:normal;font-size-adjust:none;font-weight:normal;font-stretch=
:normal;font-size:12pt;line-height:normal;font-family:Arial, Helvetica, san=
s-serif;"><div><font size=3D"4">Dave <br clear=3D"none" /></font></div><div=
><br clear=3D"none" /></div></div></div></div></div><div><br clear=3D"none" =
/></div>
=20
</div><div id=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyahoo_quoted_35=
45343806" class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyahoo_quoted"><div st=
yle=3D"font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" class=3D"y=
dpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyahoo-style-wrap">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
=20
<div class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdquoted-tex=
t-header">
On Thursday, March 12, 2026 at 12:06:49 PM CDT, Tim =
Gaines <mtgaines@presby.edu> wrote:
</div>
</div><div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica=
, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;border-left:1px solid #ccc=
;padding-left:8px;margin:0px 0px 0px 8px;" class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv703504494=
5ydp215788bdinline_reply_quote_container">
<div><br clear=3D"none" /></div><div><br clear=3D"none" /><=
/div>
<div><div id=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv23737=
89621">
<div><div>It is a stormy where I am, so I'm inside with my laptop instead o=
f under my TR6 working to get that rear shock mount cross member out. Someh=
ow I must have deleted some of this thread, and I don't remember if I ever=
continued with my "fix" to the problem. I did carry it over to "The Triumph =
Experience" where I got some more recommendations, and though I was discou=
raged for a time, I am now very optimistic about my choices.</div><div><br=
clear=3D"none" /></div><div>First, I got out the lever shocks that I had re=
moved a couple of decades ago and opened them up and found the cause of the=
ir horrible performance. They were filled with grease! I found a Youtube vi=
deo on the "Yakov's Beauties" site (so many great Triumph jobs there) that=
showed how to refurbish them. I did what he did and got a similar result wh=
ere much more force was needed to move the levers. I really think they are=
going to work as is, but if not I'll get them done by one of the shops ment=
ioned by others here.</div><div><br clear=3D"none" /></div><div>Second, I d=
id embark on an attempt to weld up and patch the cracks that had appeared o=
n the left side of the cross member (gas tank out of course). I thought I c=
ould hold the pieces together with C-clamps and then spot weld them in a fe=
w places from underneath, up into the channel. The idea was to then add mor=
e to the welds in the channel and then weld patches to the outer surfaces o=
f the channel that I would cut from 14 gauge sheet steel. I did get a coupl=
e of spot welds done, but the channel is narrow, the MIG nozzle is pretty w=
ide, and it was very hard to see anything when the nozzle and my hand block=
ed the light. The killer was my discovery of another crack farther up near=
the differential that was in an even narrower spot. I called a local welder =
who was happy to come take a look at the possibility of doing a stick weld =
up there, but he said there was no way it could be done, and he thought th=
e cracking would spread anyway. Total discouragement at that point because=
I just couldn't imagine incurring the expense of a frame-off job to install =
the RATCO Differential Tower replacement after post-Helene clearing and tr=
ee work had depleted our accounts.</div><div><br clear=3D"none" /></div><di=
v>A very helpful post on The Triumph Experience (from Ken D) let me know th=
at the RATCO replacement could be done without removing the frame. "Read th=
e instructions on the RATCO site," he said. I did, and the process sounded=
very doable, even for this 78 year old. I talked to Bob at RATCO, and got s=
ome good advice about carefully checking my frame for rust before proceedin=
g. The cross member set up for lever shocks was not in stock, but it is lik=
ely to be shipped next week. Meanwhile I have been busy following the instr=
uctions. I'll briefly describe how things have gone for those who might be=
thinking of the same solution.</div><div><br clear=3D"none" /></div><div>Th=
ere was some initial frame prep required that would be very difficult to do =
without first making room by removing the hubs and half axles from the tra=
iling arms and letting the arms hang lower. Each side has 6 nyloc nuts hold=
ing the hub to the cast aluminum trailing arm. All but one of mine came out =
nicely, but one nut was frozen to its stud, and that stud and nut unit re-=
tightened after several turns out. It was extremely tight and I feared stri=
pping the aluminum threads in the arm by forcing it out. It took several ho=
urs (over a couple of days) of spraying Liquid Wrench, turning back in and=
then out, tapping the surrounding metal, applying heat with a heat gun (a t=
orch might have been too much for the aluminum) to loosen the nut. It seeme=
d interminable, but I did begin to feel that the nut was backing out a litt=
le farther on the stud, and it did finally give leaving the stud and arm th=
reads intact. Whew. Another Yakov video showed how to simply pull out the h=
ubs (no need to do anything with the diff). Mine were stuck, but I borrowed =
a hub puller with a slide hammer from Advance Auto (payed $175, got it ref=
unded after pulling the hubs in 90 min).=C2=A0</div><div><br clear=3D"none" =
/></div><div>I used my little air compression driven grinder with cutting=
wheel to slice the shock bump stops from the frame sides (to be re-welded l=
ater to a frame collar in the RATCO kit). It was a tedious job. I borrowed=
a friend's Makita electric angle grinder with a 4.5" diameter, .040" thick=
cutting wheel for the cuts to the old cross member. The cuts on the front s=
ide of the old cross member to separate it from the frame were about 6" lon=
g and took less than a minute each! The same cuts on the back side of the o=
ld cross were hindered by the bottom of the trunk area where the gas tank r=
esides. Only about an inch of the cutting wheel could cut until the body of =
the angle grinder was blocked from moving farther in. This was incredibly=
discouraging, and I think it is the only flaw in the instructions provided=
by RATCO. Maybe there are low profile angle grinders that could work? I fin=
ally hit on the idea using my saws-all with a good long Diablo metal-cuttin=
g blade (I do have a few of my own tools at hand). It did a good job of cut=
ting the rest of the way and took only a few minutes. I have used a grindin=
g wheel to smooth out the metal left on the frame after some of the cuts, a=
nd that has gone well.</div><div><br clear=3D"none" /></div><div>Yesterday=
I reinstalled the hubs using just 2 new nyloc nuts on each. The hardest par=
t (not really bad) was sliding the new rubber boots (old ones worn) over th=
e splines in the shafts before pushing them through the trailing arms (held =
up with a scrap piece of wood). This next is the best thing about the whol=
e job. Tomorrow I plan to place a jack under the diff, remove the 4 nuts ho=
lding it to the mounts (2 in the old cross), and then lowering the jack to=
allow the diff to settle into a cradle of the 2 axles and the drive shaft.=
The only thing left holding the old cross in place is an easily accessed ha=
lf inch weld on each frame rail. Should take about a minute to cut through=
those and then pull out the old cross. There will be more grinding to smoot=
h the frame surface in preparation for the new cross member. That cross wil=
l be positioned by slowly jacking the diff back up into the 2 stationary fo=
rward mounts and into the mounts on the temporarily movable new cross. Inge=
nious! At that point my nearby pro welder has agreed to do the welding to t=
he frame.</div><div><br clear=3D"none" /></div><div>The current price tag o=
n the RATCO kit is $375 plus shipping. The welder charges by the hour, but=
I don't think it should take too long. Maybe $200 or so there; certainly le=
ss than $800 total for the fix. That is more than I thought it would take o=
riginally, but this is much better than having an iffy patch job or a car t=
hat sits in the garage until . . . ?</div><div><br clear=3D"none" /></div><=
div>Tim=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div><br clear=3D"none" /></div><div>=C2=A0</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none" /></div>
<div>
<div>------ Original Message ------</div>
<div>From "Stan Foster" <<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:stan@redtr6.co=
m">stan@redtr6.com</a>></div>
<div>To "Tim Gaines" <<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:mtgaines@presby.e=
du">mtgaines@presby.edu</a>>; "Triumphs" <<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"m=
ailto:triumphs@autox.team.net">triumphs@autox.team.net</a>></div>
<div>Date 10/8/2025 5:37:30 PM</div>
<div>Subject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break</div></div><div><br clear=
=3D"none" /></div>
<div id=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621x1b44cab5f9b34d1=
"><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv=
2373789621cite2">
<div class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621WordSection1"=
>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;">I had those brackets and the stress caused th=
e cross ember to be torn off the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATC=
O and switched back to lever arm schocks.</span></p>=20
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;"> =C2=A0</span></p>=20
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;">Stan</span></p>=20
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;"> =C2=A0</span></p>=20
<div>
<div style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in=
0in 0in;">
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><b><=
span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;">From:</span></b><sp=
an style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;"> Triumphs <triumph=
s-bounces@autox.team.net>
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Tim Gaines<br clear=3D"none" />
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM<br clear=3D"none" />
<b>To:</b> Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net><br clear=3D"none" />
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break</span></p>=20
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"> =C2=
=A0</p>=20
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;">I have been hearing a slapping sound ei=
ther under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly roug=
h pavement, so today I decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the pr=
oblem
quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose,=
but no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the=
left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked =
near where the after market shock
mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog an=
d that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this s=
hock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of dec=
ades ago) was a bad idea and put
too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be=
some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a=
fix should be attempted.
</span></p>=20
<div>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;"> =C2=A0</span></p>=20
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;">That crack shown in the photo seems to=
be only on the back side of the cross member. I have learned some welding s=
kills in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done
anything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank ei=
ther. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, b=
ut is this really something that can be fixed that way?
</span></p>=20
<div>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;"> =C2=A0</span></p>=20
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;">=C2=A0</span></p>=20
<div>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;"> =C2=A0</span></p>=20
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;"> =C2=A0</span></p>=20
<div>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;"> =C2=A0</span></p>=20
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;"> =C2=A0</span></p>=20
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div id=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40=
BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;"> =C2=A0</span></p>=20
<table border=3D"1" cellspacing=3D"5" cellpadding=3D"0" style=3D"border:non=
e;border-top:solid #D3D4DE 1.0pt;" class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp2157=
88bdyiv2373789621MsoNormalTable"><tbody><tr><td colspan=3D"1" rowspan=3D"1" =
width=3D"55" style=3D"width:41.25pt;border:none;padding:9.75pt .75pt .75pt =
.75pt;">
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><a s=
hape=3D"rect" href=3D"https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&am=
p;utm_source=3Dlink&utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailcli=
ent"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;text-decoration:none;"><img id=
=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621_x0000_i1025" border=3D=
"0" width=3D"46" height=3D"29" style=3D"width: 0.4791in; min-height: 0.3041=
in; border: 0px;" src=3D"https://s-install.avcdn.net/ipm/preview/icons/icon=
-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif" data-inlineimagemani=
pulating=3D"true" /></span></a><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;"></sp=
an></p>=20
</td><td colspan=3D"1" rowspan=3D"1" width=3D"470" style=3D"width:352.5pt;b=
order:none;padding:9.0pt .75pt .75pt .75pt;">
<p style=3D"line-height:13.5pt;" class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788=
bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-=
serif;color:#41424E;">Virus-free.<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"https://www.avas=
t.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm_campaign=
=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient"><span style=3D"color:#4453EA;">=
www.avast.com</span></a></span></p>=20
</td></tr></tbody></table>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"> =C2=
=A0</p>=20
</div>
</div>
</blockquote></div>
</div></div>** <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>tr=
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