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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>From your pictures it looks like you had a pending diff mount failure so no=
matter what you do about the shocks you needed to address this.=C2=A0 Big =
job with the body mounted but it sounds like you have it under control.
Good luck.
Dave=20
=20
On Wednesday, March 18, 2026 at 04:18:05 PM CDT, Tim Gaines <mtgaines@p=
resby.edu> wrote: =20
=20
Dave, I did check the Coil-Over kit, but it looked as if the job would be a=
good deal more demanding than than the one I'm into with the replacement c=
ross member. That old cross with the shock mounts would have to come out ei=
ther way, and since I have already refurbished the lever shocks, well=C2=A0=
.=C2=A0 .=C2=A0 .=C2=A0 .=C2=A0 I realize that RATCO has improved the geom=
etry of the shock system with the Coil-Over compared to the tube conversion=
that probably tore my cross member apart, but it seems to me that the desi=
gn of the original lever shocks is as good or better. The ball joint in the=
levers allows them to follow the arc that describes the travel of the rear=
of the trailing arms (where the levers, or the tubes in the conversion, co=
nnect) without putting lateral pressure on the cross member. That is my thi=
nking anyway.
And for anyone interested in the description of the RATCO Tower Kit install=
ation I started last week:=C2=A0Today was a good day in the garage. After s=
everal days with nasty weather and then some more with other demands, I low=
ered the jack under the diff so it could move down to its "cradle" formed b=
y the 2 half axles and the drive shaft. I then cut through the short welds =
holding the left and right ends of the cross member to the frame rails. I w=
as then able to lever the the cross up far enough for its studs to clear th=
e diff and then slide the whole cross out.
The photos tell a sad tale:=C2=A0(1) Rear side:=C2=A0 Some of the metal tha=
t connected to the left rail was gone and small cracks are above that. I ha=
d to (straight) cut those connections on the right.(2) Rear side again:=C2=
=A0 I had fabricated a patch to replace the missing metal in my original (a=
borted) plan.(3) Front side:=C2=A0 The unreachable crack that scuttled the =
original plan.
The new kit has not shipped yet, but I still have some work to do anyway. T=
he old welds on the frame I cut today need to be ground smooth, and then I =
need to used a flap wheel on the grinder to get the frame clean and shiny f=
or the welds to come.=C2=A0
Tim
------ Original Message ------From "DAVID MASSEY" <dave1massey@cs.com>To "S=
tan Foster" <stan@redtr6.com>; "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>; "Tim G=
aines" on either<mtgaines@presby.edu>Date 3/13/2026 7:20:53 AMSubject Re: [=
TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
Here's a thought.=C2=A0 Ratco sells a Coil-Over conversion kit that doesn't=
use the stock shock mounts at all.=C2=A0 Have you considered that?
Dave=20
On Thursday, March 12, 2026 at 12:06:49 PM CDT, Tim Gaines <mtgaines@pr=
esby.edu> wrote: =20
It is a stormy where I am, so I'm inside with my laptop instead of under m=
y TR6 working to get that rear shock mount cross member out. Somehow I must=
have deleted some of this thread, and I don't remember if I ever continued=
with my "fix" to the problem. I did carry it over to "The Triumph Experien=
ce" where I got some more recommendations, and though I was discouraged for=
a time, I am now very optimistic about my choices.
First, I got out the lever shocks that I had removed a couple of decades ag=
o and opened them up and found the cause of their horrible performance. The=
y were filled with grease! I found a Youtube video on the "Yakov's Beauties=
" site (so many great Triumph jobs there) that showed how to refurbish them=
. I did what he did and got a similar result where much more force was need=
ed to move the levers. I really think they are going to work as is, but if =
not I'll get them done by one of the shops mentioned by others here.
Second, I did embark on an attempt to weld up and patch the cracks that had=
appeared on the left side of the cross member (gas tank out of course). I =
thought I could hold the pieces together with C-clamps and then spot weld t=
hem in a few places from underneath, up into the channel. The idea was to t=
hen add more to the welds in the channel and then weld patches to the outer=
surfaces of the channel that I would cut from 14 gauge sheet steel. I did =
get a couple of spot welds done, but the channel is narrow, the MIG nozzle =
is pretty wide, and it was very hard to see anything when the nozzle and my=
hand blocked the light. The killer was my discovery of another crack farth=
er up near the differential that was in an even narrower spot. I called a l=
ocal welder who was happy to come take a look at the possibility of doing a=
stick weld up there, but he said there was no way it could be done, and he=
thought the cracking would spread anyway. Total discouragement at that poi=
nt because I just couldn't imagine incurring the expense of a frame-off job=
to install the RATCO Differential Tower replacement after post-Helene clea=
ring and tree work had depleted our accounts.
A very helpful post on The Triumph Experience (from Ken D) let me know that=
the RATCO replacement could be done without removing the frame. "Read the =
instructions on the RATCO site," he said. I did, and the process sounded ve=
ry doable, even for this 78 year old. I talked to Bob at RATCO, and got som=
e good advice about carefully checking my frame for rust before proceeding.=
The cross member set up for lever shocks was not in stock, but it is likel=
y to be shipped next week. Meanwhile I have been busy following the instruc=
tions. I'll briefly describe how things have gone for those who might be th=
inking of the same solution.
There was some initial frame prep required that would be very difficult to =
do without first making room by removing the hubs and half axles from the t=
railing arms and letting the arms hang lower. Each side has 6 nyloc nuts ho=
lding the hub to the cast aluminum trailing arm. All but one of mine came o=
ut nicely, but one nut was frozen to its stud, and that stud and nut unit r=
e-tightened after several turns out. It was extremely tight and I feared st=
ripping the aluminum threads in the arm by forcing it out. It took several =
hours (over a couple of days) of spraying Liquid Wrench, turning back in an=
d then out, tapping the surrounding metal, applying heat with a heat gun (a=
torch might have been too much for the aluminum) to loosen the nut. It see=
med interminable, but I did begin to feel that the nut was backing out a li=
ttle farther on the stud, and it did finally give leaving the stud and arm =
threads intact. Whew. Another Yakov video showed how to simply pull out the=
hubs (no need to do anything with the diff). Mine were stuck, but I borrow=
ed a hub puller with a slide hammer from Advance Auto (payed $175, got it r=
efunded after pulling the hubs in 90 min).=C2=A0
I used my little air compression driven grinder with cutting wheel to slice=
the shock bump stops from the frame sides (to be re-welded later to a fram=
e collar in the RATCO kit). It was a tedious job. I borrowed a friend's Mak=
ita electric angle grinder with a 4.5" diameter, .040" thick cutting wheel =
for the cuts to the old cross member. The cuts on the front side of the old=
cross member to separate it from the frame were about 6" long and took les=
s than a minute each! The same cuts on the back side of the old cross were =
hindered by the bottom of the trunk area where the gas tank resides. Only a=
bout an inch of the cutting wheel could cut until the body of the angle gri=
nder was blocked from moving farther in. This was incredibly discouraging, =
and I think it is the only flaw in the instructions provided by RATCO. Mayb=
e there are low profile angle grinders that could work? I finally hit on th=
e idea using my saws-all with a good long Diablo metal-cutting blade (I do =
have a few of my own tools at hand). It did a good job of cutting the rest =
of the way and took only a few minutes. I have used a grinding wheel to smo=
oth out the metal left on the frame after some of the cuts, and that has go=
ne well.
Yesterday I reinstalled the hubs using just 2 new nyloc nuts on each. The h=
ardest part (not really bad) was sliding the new rubber boots (old ones wor=
n) over the splines in the shafts before pushing them through the trailing =
arms (held up with a scrap piece of wood). This next is the best thing abou=
t the whole job. Tomorrow I plan to place a jack under the diff, remove the=
4 nuts holding it to the mounts (2 in the old cross), and then lowering th=
e jack to allow the diff to settle into a cradle of the 2 axles and the dri=
ve shaft. The only thing left holding the old cross in place is an easily a=
ccessed half inch weld on each frame rail. Should take about a minute to cu=
t through those and then pull out the old cross. There will be more grindin=
g to smooth the frame surface in preparation for the new cross member. That=
cross will be positioned by slowly jacking the diff back up into the 2 sta=
tionary forward mounts and into the mounts on the temporarily movable new c=
ross. Ingenious! At that point my nearby pro welder has agreed to do the we=
lding to the frame.
The current price tag on the RATCO kit is $375 plus shipping. The welder ch=
arges by the hour, but I don't think it should take too long. Maybe $200 or=
so there; certainly less than $800 total for the fix. That is more than I =
thought it would take originally, but this is much better than having an if=
fy patch job or a car that sits in the garage until . . . ?
Tim=C2=A0=C2=A0
=C2=A0
------ Original Message ------From "Stan Foster" <stan@redtr6.com>To "Tim G=
aines" <mtgaines@presby.edu>; "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>Date 10/8=
/2025 5:37:30 PMSubject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn off t=
he frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back to lever a=
rm schocks.
=20
=C2=A0
=20
Stan
=20
=C2=A0
=20
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net>On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
=20
=C2=A0
=20
I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974 =
TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to so=
rt it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the sp=
are tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finall=
y gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the t=
ire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market sh=
ock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog=
and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if thi=
s shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of =
decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member.=
It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone throu=
gh this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
=20
=C2=A0
=20
That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cros=
s member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I h=
ave a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don'=
t like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pr=
o welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can=
be fixed that way?
=20
=C2=A0
=20
=C2=A0
=20
=C2=A0
=20
=C2=A0
=20
=C2=A0
=20
=C2=A0
=20
=C2=A0
=20
|=20
|=20
Virus-free.www.avast.com
|
=C2=A0
=20
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs=C2=A0 http://www.team.net/a=
rchive
sey@cs.com
=20
=20
------=_Part_630474_247553328.1773924129387
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydpe37507e5yahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div><div dir=
=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">From your pictures it looks like you had a p=
ending diff mount failure so no matter what you do about the shocks you nee=
ded to address this. Big job with the body mounted but it sounds like=
you have it under control.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br=
></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Good luck.</div><div><br></di=
v><div class=3D"ydpe37507e5signature"><div style=3D"color: black; font-styl=
e: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-weight: normal; font-stretch: norma=
l; font-size: 12pt; line-height: normal; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, san=
s-serif;"><div style=3D"color: black; font-style: normal; font-size-adjust:=
none; font-weight: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt; line-hei=
ght: normal; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div><font size=3D=
"4">Dave <br></font></div><div><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:=
sans-serif;color:black;"><br></span></div><br></div></div></div></div>
<div><br></div><div><br></div>
=20
</div><div id=3D"ydpf4badd0cyahoo_quoted_4780409176" class=3D"ydpf4=
badd0cyahoo_quoted"><div class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"fon=
t-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
=20
<div class=3D"ydpf4badd0cquoted-text-header">
On Wednesday, March 18, 2026 at 04:18:05 PM CDT, Ti=
m Gaines <mtgaines@presby.edu> wrote:
</div>
</div><div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica=
, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;border-left: 1px solid #cc=
c;padding-left: 8px;margin: 0px 0px 0px 8px" class=3D"ydpf4badd0cinline_rep=
ly_quote_container" data-split-quote-node=3D"true">
<div><br></div><div><br></div>
<div><div id=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945"><div><div><br cle=
ar=3D"none"></div>
<div>Dave, I did check the Coil-Over kit, but it looked as if the job would=
be a good deal more demanding than than the one I'm into with the replacem=
ent cross member. That old cross with the shock mounts would have to come o=
ut either way, and since I have already refurbished the lever shocks, well&=
nbsp; . . . . I realize that RATCO has improved the=
geometry of the shock system with the Coil-Over compared to the tube conve=
rsion that probably tore my cross member apart, but it seems to me that the=
design of the original lever shocks is as good or better. The ball joint i=
n the levers allows them to follow the arc that describes the travel of the=
rear of the trailing arms (where the levers, or the tubes in the conversio=
n, connect) without putting lateral pressure on the cross member. That is m=
y thinking anyway.</div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div><div>And for anyone i=
nterested in the description of the RATCO Tower Kit installation I started =
last week:</div><div> </div><div>Today was a good day in the garage. A=
fter several days with nasty weather and then some more with other demands,=
I lowered the jack under the diff so it could move down to its "cradle" fo=
rmed by the 2 half axles and the drive shaft. I then cut through the short =
welds holding the left and right ends of the cross member to the frame rail=
s. I was then able to lever the the cross up far enough for its studs to cl=
ear the diff and then slide the whole cross out.</div><div><br clear=3D"non=
e"></div><div>The photos tell a sad tale: </div><div>(1) Rear side:&nb=
sp; Some of the metal that connected to the left rail was gone and small cr=
acks are above that. I had to (straight) cut those connections on the right=
.</div><div>(2) Rear side again: I had fabricated a patch to replace =
the missing metal in my original (aborted) plan.</div><div>(3) Front side:&=
nbsp; The unreachable crack that scuttled the original plan.</div><div><br =
clear=3D"none"></div><div>The new kit has not shipped yet, but I still have=
some work to do anyway. The old welds on the frame I cut today need to be =
ground smooth, and then I need to used a flap wheel on the grinder to get t=
he frame clean and shiny for the welds to come. </div><div><br clear=
=3D"none"></div><div>Tim</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none"></div>
<div id=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945yqt13002" class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044=
945yqt4228942722"><div>
<div>------ Original Message ------</div>
<div>From "DAVID MASSEY" <<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:dave1massey@c=
s.com" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener">dave1massey@cs.com</a>=
></div>
<div>To "Stan Foster" <<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:stan@redtr6.com"=
target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener">stan@redtr6.com</a>>; "Tr=
iumphs" <<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; targe=
t=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener">triumphs@autox.team.net</a>>; "=
Tim Gaines" on either<<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:mtgaines@presby.e=
du" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener">mtgaines@presby.edu</a>&g=
t;</div>
<div>Date 3/13/2026 7:20:53 AM</div>
<div>Subject Re: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break</div></div><div><br clear=
=3D"none"></div>
<div id=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945x09978f85f33443a"><blockquote type=3D"ci=
te" class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945cite2" style=3D"margin-left: 5px; marg=
in-right: 0px; padding-left: 10px; padding-right: 0px; border-left: 1px sol=
id rgb(204, 204, 204); margin-top: 3px; padding-top: 0px;">
<div style=3D"font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" cla=
ss=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp129ed7b5yahoo-style-wrap"><div><div dir=3D=
"ltr">Here's a thought. Ratco sells a Coil-Over conversion kit that d=
oesn't use the stock shock mounts at all. Have you considered that?</=
div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div><div class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp=
129ed7b5signature"><div style=3D"color:black;font-style:normal;font-size-ad=
just:none;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:12pt;line-height=
:normal;font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div style=3D"color:blac=
k;font-style:normal;font-size-adjust:none;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:n=
ormal;font-size:12pt;line-height:normal;font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-=
serif;"><div><font size=3D"4">Dave <br clear=3D"none"></font></div><div><br=
clear=3D"none"></div></div></div></div></div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div=
>
=20
</div><div id=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyahoo_quoted_35=
45343806" class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyahoo_quoted"><div st=
yle=3D"font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" class=3D"y=
dpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyahoo-style-wrap">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
=20
<div class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdquoted-tex=
t-header">
On Thursday, March 12, 2026 at 12:06:49 PM CDT, Tim=
Gaines <mtgaines@presby.edu> wrote:
</div>
</div><div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica=
, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;border-left:1px solid #ccc=
;padding-left:8px;margin:0px 0px 0px 8px;" class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv703504494=
5ydp215788bdinline_reply_quote_container">
<div><br clear=3D"none"></div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div=
>
<div><div id=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv23737=
89621">
<div><div>It is a stormy where I am, so I'm inside with my laptop instead o=
f under my TR6 working to get that rear shock mount cross member out. Someh=
ow I must have deleted some of this thread, and I don't remember if I ever =
continued with my "fix" to the problem. I did carry it over to "The Triumph=
Experience" where I got some more recommendations, and though I was discou=
raged for a time, I am now very optimistic about my choices.</div><div><br =
clear=3D"none"></div><div>First, I got out the lever shocks that I had remo=
ved a couple of decades ago and opened them up and found the cause of their=
horrible performance. They were filled with grease! I found a Youtube vide=
o on the "Yakov's Beauties" site (so many great Triumph jobs there) that sh=
owed how to refurbish them. I did what he did and got a similar result wher=
e much more force was needed to move the levers. I really think they are go=
ing to work as is, but if not I'll get them done by one of the shops mentio=
ned by others here.</div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div><div>Second, I did e=
mbark on an attempt to weld up and patch the cracks that had appeared on th=
e left side of the cross member (gas tank out of course). I thought I could=
hold the pieces together with C-clamps and then spot weld them in a few pl=
aces from underneath, up into the channel. The idea was to then add more to=
the welds in the channel and then weld patches to the outer surfaces of th=
e channel that I would cut from 14 gauge sheet steel. I did get a couple of=
spot welds done, but the channel is narrow, the MIG nozzle is pretty wide,=
and it was very hard to see anything when the nozzle and my hand blocked t=
he light. The killer was my discovery of another crack farther up near the =
differential that was in an even narrower spot. I called a local welder who=
was happy to come take a look at the possibility of doing a stick weld up =
there, but he said there was no way it could be done, and he thought the cr=
acking would spread anyway. Total discouragement at that point because I ju=
st couldn't imagine incurring the expense of a frame-off job to install the=
RATCO Differential Tower replacement after post-Helene clearing and tree w=
ork had depleted our accounts.</div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div><div>A ve=
ry helpful post on The Triumph Experience (from Ken D) let me know that the=
RATCO replacement could be done without removing the frame. "Read the inst=
ructions on the RATCO site," he said. I did, and the process sounded very d=
oable, even for this 78 year old. I talked to Bob at RATCO, and got some go=
od advice about carefully checking my frame for rust before proceeding. The=
cross member set up for lever shocks was not in stock, but it is likely to=
be shipped next week. Meanwhile I have been busy following the instruction=
s. I'll briefly describe how things have gone for those who might be thinki=
ng of the same solution.</div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div><div>There was =
some initial frame prep required that would be very difficult to do without=
first making room by removing the hubs and half axles from the trailing ar=
ms and letting the arms hang lower. Each side has 6 nyloc nuts holding the =
hub to the cast aluminum trailing arm. All but one of mine came out nicely,=
but one nut was frozen to its stud, and that stud and nut unit re-tightene=
d after several turns out. It was extremely tight and I feared stripping th=
e aluminum threads in the arm by forcing it out. It took several hours (ove=
r a couple of days) of spraying Liquid Wrench, turning back in and then out=
, tapping the surrounding metal, applying heat with a heat gun (a torch mig=
ht have been too much for the aluminum) to loosen the nut. It seemed interm=
inable, but I did begin to feel that the nut was backing out a little farth=
er on the stud, and it did finally give leaving the stud and arm threads in=
tact. Whew. Another Yakov video showed how to simply pull out the hubs (no =
need to do anything with the diff). Mine were stuck, but I borrowed a hub p=
uller with a slide hammer from Advance Auto (payed $175, got it refunded af=
ter pulling the hubs in 90 min). </div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div><=
div>I used my little air compression driven grinder with cutting wheel to s=
lice the shock bump stops from the frame sides (to be re-welded later to a =
frame collar in the RATCO kit). It was a tedious job. I borrowed a friend's=
Makita electric angle grinder with a 4.5" diameter, .040" thick cutting wh=
eel for the cuts to the old cross member. The cuts on the front side of the=
old cross member to separate it from the frame were about 6" long and took=
less than a minute each! The same cuts on the back side of the old cross w=
ere hindered by the bottom of the trunk area where the gas tank resides. On=
ly about an inch of the cutting wheel could cut until the body of the angle=
grinder was blocked from moving farther in. This was incredibly discouragi=
ng, and I think it is the only flaw in the instructions provided by RATCO. =
Maybe there are low profile angle grinders that could work? I finally hit o=
n the idea using my saws-all with a good long Diablo metal-cutting blade (I=
do have a few of my own tools at hand). It did a good job of cutting the r=
est of the way and took only a few minutes. I have used a grinding wheel to=
smooth out the metal left on the frame after some of the cuts, and that ha=
s gone well.</div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div><div>Yesterday I reinstalle=
d the hubs using just 2 new nyloc nuts on each. The hardest part (not reall=
y bad) was sliding the new rubber boots (old ones worn) over the splines in=
the shafts before pushing them through the trailing arms (held up with a s=
crap piece of wood). This next is the best thing about the whole job. Tomor=
row I plan to place a jack under the diff, remove the 4 nuts holding it to =
the mounts (2 in the old cross), and then lowering the jack to allow the di=
ff to settle into a cradle of the 2 axles and the drive shaft. The only thi=
ng left holding the old cross in place is an easily accessed half inch weld=
on each frame rail. Should take about a minute to cut through those and th=
en pull out the old cross. There will be more grinding to smooth the frame =
surface in preparation for the new cross member. That cross will be positio=
ned by slowly jacking the diff back up into the 2 stationary forward mounts=
and into the mounts on the temporarily movable new cross. Ingenious! At th=
at point my nearby pro welder has agreed to do the welding to the frame.</d=
iv><div><br clear=3D"none"></div><div>The current price tag on the RATCO ki=
t is $375 plus shipping. The welder charges by the hour, but I don't think =
it should take too long. Maybe $200 or so there; certainly less than $800 t=
otal for the fix. That is more than I thought it would take originally, but=
this is much better than having an iffy patch job or a car that sits in th=
e garage until . . . ?</div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div><div>Tim &nb=
sp;</div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div><div> </div>
<div><br clear=3D"none"></div>
<div>
<div>------ Original Message ------</div>
<div>From "Stan Foster" <<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:stan@redtr6.co=
m" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener">stan@redtr6.com</a>></d=
iv>
<div>To "Tim Gaines" <<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:mtgaines@presby.e=
du" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener">mtgaines@presby.edu</a>&g=
t;; "Triumphs" <<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net=
" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener">triumphs@autox.team.net</a>=
></div>
<div>Date 10/8/2025 5:37:30 PM</div>
<div>Subject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break</div></div><div><br clear=
=3D"none"></div>
<div id=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621x1b44cab5f9b34d1=
"><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv=
2373789621cite2">
<div class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621WordSection1"=
>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;">I had those brackets and the stress caused th=
e cross ember to be torn off the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATC=
O and switched back to lever arm schocks.</span></p>=20
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;"> </span></p>=20
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;">Stan</span></p>=20
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;"> </span></p>=20
<div>
<div style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in;">
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><b><=
span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;">From:</span></b><sp=
an style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;"> Triumphs <triumph=
s-bounces@autox.team.net>
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Tim Gaines<br clear=3D"none">
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM<br clear=3D"none">
<b>To:</b> Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net><br clear=3D"none">
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break</span></p>=20
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"> &nb=
sp;</p>=20
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;">I have been hearing a slapping sound ei=
ther under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly roug=
h pavement, so today I decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the pr=
oblem
quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, =
but no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the =
left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked=
near where the after market shock
mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog an=
d that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this s=
hock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of dec=
ades ago) was a bad idea and put
too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be =
some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a =
fix should be attempted.
</span></p>=20
<div>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;"> </span></p>=20
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;">That crack shown in the photo seems to =
be only on the back side of the cross member. I have learned some welding s=
kills in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done
anything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank ei=
ther. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, b=
ut is this really something that can be fixed that way?
</span></p>=20
<div>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;"> </span></p>=20
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;"> </span></p>=20
<div>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;"> </span></p>=20
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;"> </span></p>=20
<div>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;"> </span></p>=20
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;"> </span></p>=20
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div id=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40=
BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;"> </span></p>=20
<table border=3D"1" cellspacing=3D"5" cellpadding=3D"0" style=3D"border:non=
e;border-top:solid #D3D4DE 1.0pt;" class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp2157=
88bdyiv2373789621MsoNormalTable"><tbody><tr><td colspan=3D"1" rowspan=3D"1"=
width=3D"55" style=3D"width:41.25pt;border:none;padding:9.75pt .75pt .75pt=
.75pt;">
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><a s=
hape=3D"rect" href=3D"https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&am=
p;utm_source=3Dlink&utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailcli=
ent" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener"><span style=3D"font-fami=
ly:sans-serif;text-decoration:none;"><img id=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp=
215788bdyiv2373789621_x0000_i1025" border=3D"0" width=3D"46" height=3D"29" =
style=3D"width: 0.4791in; min-height: 0.3041in; border: 0px;" src=3D"https:=
//s-install.avcdn.net/ipm/preview/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-ani=
mated-no-repeat-v1.gif" data-inlineimagemanipulating=3D"true"></span></a><s=
pan style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;"></span></p>=20
</td><td colspan=3D"1" rowspan=3D"1" width=3D"470" style=3D"width:352.5pt;b=
order:none;padding:9.0pt .75pt .75pt .75pt;">
<p style=3D"line-height:13.5pt;" class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788=
bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-=
serif;color:#41424E;">Virus-free.<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"https://www.avas=
t.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm_campaign=
=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer noopener"><span style=3D"color:#4453EA;">www.avast.com</span></a></spa=
n></p>=20
</td></tr></tbody></table>
<p class=3D"ydpf4badd0cyiv7035044945ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"> &nb=
sp;</p>=20
</div>
</div>
</blockquote></div>
</div></div>** <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; ta=
rget=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **<=
br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">Donate: <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http=
://www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener">=
rect" href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs"; target=3D"_blank" rel=
=3D"noreferrer noopener">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a> <=
a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive"; target=3D"_blank" rel=
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<br clear=3D"none">Unsubscribe/Manage: <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://aut=
ox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey@cs.com" target=3D"_blank" =
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dave1massey@cs.com</a><br clear=3D"none"></div>
</div>
</div></div></blockquote></div></div>
</div></div></div>
</div>
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