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Wow! Those pictures paint a dismal situation. Good luck with whatever =
direction you go in. Thanks for your detailed descriptions.
=20
Alex Thomson
'73 TR6
=20
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2026 5:18 PM
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey@cs.com>; Triumphs =
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
=20
=20
Dave, I did check the Coil-Over kit, but it looked as if the job would =
be a good deal more demanding than than the one I'm into with the =
replacement cross member. That old cross with the shock mounts would =
have to come out either way, and since I have already refurbished the =
lever shocks, well . . . . I realize that RATCO has improved the =
geometry of the shock system with the Coil-Over compared to the tube =
conversion that probably tore my cross member apart, but it seems to me =
that the design of the original lever shocks is as good or better. The =
ball joint in the levers allows them to follow the arc that describes =
the travel of the rear of the trailing arms (where the levers, or the =
tubes in the conversion, connect) without putting lateral pressure on =
the cross member. That is my thinking anyway.
=20
And for anyone interested in the description of the RATCO Tower Kit =
installation I started last week:
=20
Today was a good day in the garage. After several days with nasty =
weather and then some more with other demands, I lowered the jack under =
the diff so it could move down to its "cradle" formed by the 2 half =
axles and the drive shaft. I then cut through the short welds holding =
the left and right ends of the cross member to the frame rails. I was =
then able to lever the the cross up far enough for its studs to clear =
the diff and then slide the whole cross out.
=20
The photos tell a sad tale:=20
(1) Rear side: Some of the metal that connected to the left rail was =
gone and small cracks are above that. I had to (straight) cut those =
connections on the right.
(2) Rear side again: I had fabricated a patch to replace the missing =
metal in my original (aborted) plan.
(3) Front side: The unreachable crack that scuttled the original plan.
=20
The new kit has not shipped yet, but I still have some work to do =
anyway. The old welds on the frame I cut today need to be ground smooth, =
and then I need to used a flap wheel on the grinder to get the frame =
clean and shiny for the welds to come.=20
=20
Tim
=20
------ Original Message ------
Date 3/13/2026 7:20:53 AM
Subject Re: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
=20
Here's a thought. Ratco sells a Coil-Over conversion kit that doesn't =
use the stock shock mounts at all. Have you considered that?
=20
Dave=20
=20
=20
On Thursday, March 12, 2026 at 12:06:49 PM CDT, Tim Gaines =
=20
=20
It is a stormy where I am, so I'm inside with my laptop instead of under =
my TR6 working to get that rear shock mount cross member out. Somehow I =
must have deleted some of this thread, and I don't remember if I ever =
continued with my "fix" to the problem. I did carry it over to "The =
Triumph Experience" where I got some more recommendations, and though I =
was discouraged for a time, I am now very optimistic about my choices.
=20
First, I got out the lever shocks that I had removed a couple of decades =
ago and opened them up and found the cause of their horrible =
performance. They were filled with grease! I found a Youtube video on =
the "Yakov's Beauties" site (so many great Triumph jobs there) that =
showed how to refurbish them. I did what he did and got a similar result =
where much more force was needed to move the levers. I really think they =
are going to work as is, but if not I'll get them done by one of the =
shops mentioned by others here.
=20
Second, I did embark on an attempt to weld up and patch the cracks that =
had appeared on the left side of the cross member (gas tank out of =
course). I thought I could hold the pieces together with C-clamps and =
then spot weld them in a few places from underneath, up into the =
channel. The idea was to then add more to the welds in the channel and =
then weld patches to the outer surfaces of the channel that I would cut =
from 14 gauge sheet steel. I did get a couple of spot welds done, but =
the channel is narrow, the MIG nozzle is pretty wide, and it was very =
hard to see anything when the nozzle and my hand blocked the light. The =
killer was my discovery of another crack farther up near the =
differential that was in an even narrower spot. I called a local welder =
who was happy to come take a look at the possibility of doing a stick =
weld up there, but he said there was no way it could be done, and he =
thought the cracking would spread anyway. Total discouragement at that =
point because I just couldn't imagine incurring the expense of a =
frame-off job to install the RATCO Differential Tower replacement after =
post-Helene clearing and tree work had depleted our accounts.
=20
A very helpful post on The Triumph Experience (from Ken D) let me know =
that the RATCO replacement could be done without removing the frame. =
"Read the instructions on the RATCO site," he said. I did, and the =
process sounded very doable, even for this 78 year old. I talked to Bob =
at RATCO, and got some good advice about carefully checking my frame for =
rust before proceeding. The cross member set up for lever shocks was not =
in stock, but it is likely to be shipped next week. Meanwhile I have =
been busy following the instructions. I'll briefly describe how things =
have gone for those who might be thinking of the same solution.
=20
There was some initial frame prep required that would be very difficult =
to do without first making room by removing the hubs and half axles from =
the trailing arms and letting the arms hang lower. Each side has 6 nyloc =
nuts holding the hub to the cast aluminum trailing arm. All but one of =
mine came out nicely, but one nut was frozen to its stud, and that stud =
and nut unit re-tightened after several turns out. It was extremely =
tight and I feared stripping the aluminum threads in the arm by forcing =
it out. It took several hours (over a couple of days) of spraying Liquid =
Wrench, turning back in and then out, tapping the surrounding metal, =
applying heat with a heat gun (a torch might have been too much for the =
aluminum) to loosen the nut. It seemed interminable, but I did begin to =
feel that the nut was backing out a little farther on the stud, and it =
did finally give leaving the stud and arm threads intact. Whew. Another =
Yakov video showed how to simply pull out the hubs (no need to do =
anything with the diff). Mine were stuck, but I borrowed a hub puller =
with a slide hammer from Advance Auto (payed $175, got it refunded after =
pulling the hubs in 90 min).=20
=20
I used my little air compression driven grinder with cutting wheel to =
slice the shock bump stops from the frame sides (to be re-welded later =
to a frame collar in the RATCO kit). It was a tedious job. I borrowed a =
friend's Makita electric angle grinder with a 4.5" diameter, .040" thick =
cutting wheel for the cuts to the old cross member. The cuts on the =
front side of the old cross member to separate it from the frame were =
about 6" long and took less than a minute each! The same cuts on the =
back side of the old cross were hindered by the bottom of the trunk area =
where the gas tank resides. Only about an inch of the cutting wheel =
could cut until the body of the angle grinder was blocked from moving =
farther in. This was incredibly discouraging, and I think it is the only =
flaw in the instructions provided by RATCO. Maybe there are low profile =
angle grinders that could work? I finally hit on the idea using my =
saws-all with a good long Diablo metal-cutting blade (I do have a few of =
my own tools at hand). It did a good job of cutting the rest of the way =
and took only a few minutes. I have used a grinding wheel to smooth out =
the metal left on the frame after some of the cuts, and that has gone =
well.
=20
Yesterday I reinstalled the hubs using just 2 new nyloc nuts on each. =
The hardest part (not really bad) was sliding the new rubber boots (old =
ones worn) over the splines in the shafts before pushing them through =
the trailing arms (held up with a scrap piece of wood). This next is the =
best thing about the whole job. Tomorrow I plan to place a jack under =
the diff, remove the 4 nuts holding it to the mounts (2 in the old =
cross), and then lowering the jack to allow the diff to settle into a =
cradle of the 2 axles and the drive shaft. The only thing left holding =
the old cross in place is an easily accessed half inch weld on each =
frame rail. Should take about a minute to cut through those and then =
pull out the old cross. There will be more grinding to smooth the frame =
surface in preparation for the new cross member. That cross will be =
positioned by slowly jacking the diff back up into the 2 stationary =
forward mounts and into the mounts on the temporarily movable new cross. =
Ingenious! At that point my nearby pro welder has agreed to do the =
welding to the frame.
=20
The current price tag on the RATCO kit is $375 plus shipping. The welder =
charges by the hour, but I don't think it should take too long. Maybe =
$200 or so there; certainly less than $800 total for the fix. That is =
more than I thought it would take originally, but this is much better =
than having an iffy patch job or a car that sits in the garage until . . =
. ?
=20
Tim =20
=20
=20
=20
------ Original Message ------
Date 10/8/2025 5:37:30 PM
Subject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
=20
I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn =
off the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back to =
lever arm schocks.
=20
Stan
=20
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net =
Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
=20
I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the =
1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I =
decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I =
saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such =
luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear =
end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near =
where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check =
with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with =
them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old =
lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put =
too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may =
be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just =
how a fix should be attempted.=20
=20
That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the =
cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, =
and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I =
really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking =
that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really =
something that can be fixed that way?=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm=
_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient>=20
Virus-free. =
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm=
_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient> www.avast.com
=20
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey@cs.com
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class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Wow! Those pictures paint a dismal situation. Good luck with whatever =
direction you go in. Thanks for your detailed =
descriptions.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Alex Thomson<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>'73 TR6<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> <b>On Behalf Of </b>Tim =
Gaines<br><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, March 18, 2026 5:18 PM<br><b>To:</b> =
DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey@cs.com>; Triumphs =
<triumphs@autox.team.net><br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] TR6 rear =
shock mount break<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Segoe =
UI",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Segoe =
UI",sans-serif'>Dave, I did check the Coil-Over kit, but it looked as if =
the job would be a good deal more demanding than than the one I'm into =
with the replacement cross member. That old cross with the shock mounts =
would have to come out either way, and since I have already refurbished =
the lever shocks, well . . . . I realize =
that RATCO has improved the geometry of the shock system with the =
Coil-Over compared to the tube conversion that probably tore my cross =
member apart, but it seems to me that the design of the original lever =
shocks is as good or better. The ball joint in the levers allows them to =
follow the arc that describes the travel of the rear of the trailing =
arms (where the levers, or the tubes in the conversion, connect) without =
putting lateral pressure on the cross member. That is my thinking =
anyway.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Segoe =
UI",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Segoe UI",sans-serif'>And =
for anyone interested in the description of the RATCO Tower Kit =
installation I started last week:<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Segoe =
UI",sans-serif'> <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Segoe =
UI",sans-serif'>Today was a good day in the garage. After several days =
with nasty weather and then some more with other demands, I lowered the =
jack under the diff so it could move down to its "cradle" =
formed by the 2 half axles and the drive shaft. I then cut through the =
short welds holding the left and right ends of the cross member to the =
frame rails. I was then able to lever the the cross up far enough for =
its studs to clear the diff and then slide the whole cross =
out.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Segoe =
UI",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Segoe UI",sans-serif'>The =
photos tell a sad tale: <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Segoe UI",sans-serif'>(1) =
Rear side: Some of the metal that connected to the left rail was =
gone and small cracks are above that. I had to (straight) cut those =
connections on the right.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Segoe UI",sans-serif'>(2) =
Rear side again: I had fabricated a patch to replace the missing =
metal in my original (aborted) plan.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Segoe UI",sans-serif'>(3) =
Front side: The unreachable crack that scuttled the original =
plan.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Segoe =
UI",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Segoe UI",sans-serif'>The =
new kit has not shipped yet, but I still have some work to do anyway. =
The old welds on the frame I cut today need to be ground smooth, and =
then I need to used a flap wheel on the grinder to get the frame clean =
and shiny for the welds to =
come. <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Segoe =
UI",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Segoe =
UI",sans-serif'>Tim<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Segoe =
UI",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Segoe =
UI",sans-serif'>------ Original Message =
------<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Segoe UI",sans-serif'>From "DAVID =
MASSEY" <<a =
href=3D"mailto:dave1massey@cs.com";>dave1massey@cs.com</a>><o:p></o:p><=
/span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Segoe UI",sans-serif'>To "Stan Foster" =
<<a href=3D"mailto:stan@redtr6.com";>stan@redtr6.com</a>>; =
"Triumphs" <<a =
href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</a>>; =
"Tim Gaines" on either<<a =
href=3D"mailto:mtgaines@presby.edu";>mtgaines@presby.edu</a>><o:p></o:p=
></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Segoe UI",sans-serif'>Date 3/13/2026 7:20:53 =
AM<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Segoe UI",sans-serif'>Subject Re: [TR] TR6 rear =
shock mount break<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Segoe =
UI",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div =
id=3Dx09978f85f33443a><blockquote style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid =
#CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
8.0pt;margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:2.25pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom=
:5.0pt'><div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>Here's a thought. Ratco =
sells a Coil-Over conversion kit that doesn't use the stock shock mounts =
at all. Have you considered =
that?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></di=
v><div><div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:13.5pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Dav=
e </span><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></=
p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p> </o:p></s=
pan></p></div></div></div></div></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></di=
v></div><div id=3D"ydp215788bdyahoo_quoted_3545343806"><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'>On Thursday, March 12, 2026 at 12:06:49 PM CDT, Tim Gaines <<a =
href=3D"mailto:mtgaines@presby.edu";>mtgaines@presby.edu</a>> wrote: =
<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:6.0pt'><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><div =
id=3Dydp215788bdyiv2373789621><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'>It is a stormy where I am, so I'm inside with my laptop instead of =
under my TR6 working to get that rear shock mount cross member out. =
Somehow I must have deleted some of this thread, and I don't remember if =
I ever continued with my "fix" to the problem. I did carry it =
over to "The Triumph Experience" where I got some more =
recommendations, and though I was discouraged for a time, I am now very =
optimistic about my choices.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'>First, I got out the lever shocks that I had removed a couple of =
decades ago and opened them up and found the cause of their horrible =
performance. They were filled with grease! I found a Youtube video on =
the "Yakov's Beauties" site (so many great Triumph jobs there) =
that showed how to refurbish them. I did what he did and got a similar =
result where much more force was needed to move the levers. I really =
think they are going to work as is, but if not I'll get them done by one =
of the shops mentioned by others =
here.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'>Second, I did embark on an attempt to weld up and patch the cracks =
that had appeared on the left side of the cross member (gas tank out of =
course). I thought I could hold the pieces together with C-clamps and =
then spot weld them in a few places from underneath, up into the =
channel. The idea was to then add more to the welds in the channel and =
then weld patches to the outer surfaces of the channel that I would cut =
from 14 gauge sheet steel. I did get a couple of spot welds done, but =
the channel is narrow, the MIG nozzle is pretty wide, and it was very =
hard to see anything when the nozzle and my hand blocked the light. The =
killer was my discovery of another crack farther up near the =
differential that was in an even narrower spot. I called a local welder =
who was happy to come take a look at the possibility of doing a stick =
weld up there, but he said there was no way it could be done, and he =
thought the cracking would spread anyway. Total discouragement at that =
point because I just couldn't imagine incurring the expense of a =
frame-off job to install the RATCO Differential Tower replacement after =
post-Helene clearing and tree work had depleted our =
accounts.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'>A very helpful post on The Triumph Experience (from Ken D) let me =
know that the RATCO replacement could be done without removing the =
frame. "Read the instructions on the RATCO site," he said. I =
did, and the process sounded very doable, even for this 78 year old. I =
talked to Bob at RATCO, and got some good advice about carefully =
checking my frame for rust before proceeding. The cross member set up =
for lever shocks was not in stock, but it is likely to be shipped next =
week. Meanwhile I have been busy following the instructions. I'll =
briefly describe how things have gone for those who might be thinking of =
the same solution.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'>There was some initial frame prep required that would be very =
difficult to do without first making room by removing the hubs and half =
axles from the trailing arms and letting the arms hang lower. Each side =
has 6 nyloc nuts holding the hub to the cast aluminum trailing arm. All =
but one of mine came out nicely, but one nut was frozen to its stud, and =
that stud and nut unit re-tightened after several turns out. It was =
extremely tight and I feared stripping the aluminum threads in the arm =
by forcing it out. It took several hours (over a couple of days) of =
spraying Liquid Wrench, turning back in and then out, tapping the =
surrounding metal, applying heat with a heat gun (a torch might have =
been too much for the aluminum) to loosen the nut. It seemed =
interminable, but I did begin to feel that the nut was backing out a =
little farther on the stud, and it did finally give leaving the stud and =
arm threads intact. Whew. Another Yakov video showed how to simply pull =
out the hubs (no need to do anything with the diff). Mine were stuck, =
but I borrowed a hub puller with a slide hammer from Advance Auto (payed =
$175, got it refunded after pulling the hubs in 90 =
min). <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'>I used my little air compression driven grinder with cutting wheel to =
slice the shock bump stops from the frame sides (to be re-welded later =
to a frame collar in the RATCO kit). It was a tedious job. I borrowed a =
friend's Makita electric angle grinder with a 4.5" diameter, =
.040" thick cutting wheel for the cuts to the old cross member. The =
cuts on the front side of the old cross member to separate it from the =
frame were about 6" long and took less than a minute each! The same =
cuts on the back side of the old cross were hindered by the bottom of =
the trunk area where the gas tank resides. Only about an inch of the =
cutting wheel could cut until the body of the angle grinder was blocked =
from moving farther in. This was incredibly discouraging, and I think it =
is the only flaw in the instructions provided by RATCO. Maybe there are =
low profile angle grinders that could work? I finally hit on the idea =
using my saws-all with a good long Diablo metal-cutting blade (I do have =
a few of my own tools at hand). It did a good job of cutting the rest of =
the way and took only a few minutes. I have used a grinding wheel to =
smooth out the metal left on the frame after some of the cuts, and that =
has gone well.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'>Yesterday I reinstalled the hubs using just 2 new nyloc nuts on each. =
The hardest part (not really bad) was sliding the new rubber boots (old =
ones worn) over the splines in the shafts before pushing them through =
the trailing arms (held up with a scrap piece of wood). This next is the =
best thing about the whole job. Tomorrow I plan to place a jack under =
the diff, remove the 4 nuts holding it to the mounts (2 in the old =
cross), and then lowering the jack to allow the diff to settle into a =
cradle of the 2 axles and the drive shaft. The only thing left holding =
the old cross in place is an easily accessed half inch weld on each =
frame rail. Should take about a minute to cut through those and then =
pull out the old cross. There will be more grinding to smooth the frame =
surface in preparation for the new cross member. That cross will be =
positioned by slowly jacking the diff back up into the 2 stationary =
forward mounts and into the mounts on the temporarily movable new cross. =
Ingenious! At that point my nearby pro welder has agreed to do the =
welding to the frame.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'>The current price tag on the RATCO kit is $375 plus shipping. The =
welder charges by the hour, but I don't think it should take too long. =
Maybe $200 or so there; certainly less than $800 total for the fix. That =
is more than I thought it would take originally, but this is much better =
than having an iffy patch job or a car that sits in the garage until . . =
. ?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'>Tim <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'> <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'>------ Original Message ------<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'>From "Stan Foster" <<a =
href=3D"mailto:stan@redtr6.com";>stan@redtr6.com</a>><o:p></o:p></span>=
</p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'>To "Tim Gaines" <<a =
href=3D"mailto:mtgaines@presby.edu";>mtgaines@presby.edu</a>>; =
"Triumphs" <<a =
href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</a>><o=
:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'>Date 10/8/2025 5:37:30 PM<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'>Subject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount =
break<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div =
id=3Dydp215788bdyiv2373789621x1b44cab5f9b34d1><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><p =
class=3Dydp215788bdyiv2373789621msonormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'>I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn =
off the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back to =
lever arm schocks.</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3Dydp215788bdyiv2373789621msonormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'> </span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3Dydp215788bdyiv2373789621msonormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'>Stan</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3Dydp215788bdyiv2373789621msonormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'> </span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p><div><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid =
#E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p =
class=3Dydp215788bdyiv2373789621msonormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#26282A'>F=
rom:</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#26282A'> =
Triumphs <<a =
href=3D"mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net";>triumphs-bounces@autox.te=
am.net</a>> <b>On Behalf Of </b>Tim Gaines<br><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, =
October 8, 2025 4:37 PM<br><b>To:</b> Triumphs <<a =
href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</a>><b=
r><b>Subject:</b> [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3Dydp215788bdyiv2373789621msonormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'> <o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3Dydp215788bdyiv2373789621msonormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#26282A'>I=
have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the =
1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I =
decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I =
saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such =
luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear =
end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near =
where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check =
with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with =
them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old =
lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put =
too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may =
be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just =
how a fix should be attempted. </span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3Dydp215788bdyiv2373789621msonormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#26282A'>&=
nbsp;</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3Dydp215788bdyiv2373789621msonormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#26282A'>T=
hat crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the =
cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, =
and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I =
really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking =
that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really =
something that can be fixed that way? </span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3Dydp215788bdyiv2373789621msonormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#26282A'>&=
nbsp;</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3Dydp215788bdyiv2373789621msonormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#26282A'>&=
nbsp;</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3Dydp215788bdyiv2373789621msonormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#26282A'>&=
nbsp;</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3Dydp215788bdyiv2373789621msonormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#26282A'>&=
nbsp;</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3Dydp215788bdyiv2373789621msonormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#26282A'>&=
nbsp;</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3Dydp215788bdyiv2373789621msonormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#26282A'>&=
nbsp;</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div></div><div =
id=3Dydp215788bdyiv2373789621DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2><p =
class=3Dydp215788bdyiv2373789621msonormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#26282A'>&=
nbsp;</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p><table class=3DMsoNormalTable border=3D1 =
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#D3D4DE 1.0pt'><tr><td width=3D55 =
style=3D'width:41.25pt;border:none;padding:9.75pt .75pt .75pt .75pt'><p =
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><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
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