> Once in
> second it was stuck and would not come out.
So the main gearbox is also FUBAR.
> We
> had been told/heard that a Volvo J type would work.
A 72 TR6 won't take a J-type OD (even a TR6 J-type) without some
modifications. You have to cut the tabs for the rear crossmember off the
frame, and then extend the crossmember back by a foot or so. There is an
article on the Buckeye Triumphs site that gives one way to do it.
> What did he break in the original o/d?
Hard to say. Anything broken should be fairly obvious with the unit
disassembled. I would pay particular attention to the sprag clutch in the
annulus as it is usually what breaks when you back up with the overdrive
engaged.
> If we clean out
> the back casing and not disturb the innards, can we just swap
> them over?
Not if the original was an A-type. The mainshaft and adapter plate are
completely different between the two setups. In fact, I can't think of a
single component that is shared between A and J, except maybe the operating
pistons and one or two of the bearings.
And since there is no such thing as not disturbing the innards (springs and
pulleys and cams, Oh My), I wouldn't even consider installing it without at
least a brief pressure test on the bench. Besides, you still need to fix
whatever is wrong with the gearbox.
> What
> type of oil goes in the o/d and how much?
That has been endlessly debated, no clear winner. My personal favorite
(now) is Redline MT-90; but that is more because it works very well in the
gearbox. IMO the J-type is not sensitive at all, as long as it's something
oily. The OD shares oil with the gearbox, the J-type adds about 1 US pint
to the gearbox capacity. ISTR the A-type adds slightly more.
> How do you get the oil in the o/d?
Fill the gearbox, wait for the level to equalize, check the gearbox and add
more if necessary.
-- Randall
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