I think they will tell you that the quality of the original parts is much
better than the stuff being made now.
Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
> From: jeremiah@curryclan.net
> To: tr4zest@gmail.com; triumphs@autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 19:12:27 -0700
> Subject: Re: [TR] master and slave cylinder repair or replace
>
> Thanks for the advice.
>
>
>
> You obviously haven't seen my paint, stripping would be a service ;)
>
>
>
> I looked up apple hydraulics based on someone else's recommendation, but
the
> rebuild is more than the new parts. Is there a reason that rebuilt would be
> better than replaced?
>
>
>
> Jeremiah
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: Brian Jones [mailto:tr4zest@gmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 1:37 PM
> To: jeremiah@curryclan.net; email list
> Subject: Re: master and slave cylinder repair or replace
>
>
>
> Jermiah - what GREAT thing to inherit and keep in the family, you lucky
guy.
>
>
>
> On the hydraulics, my priority would be:
>
>
>
> 1) If no obvious pits, or wear lines that you can catch a nail in, install
> new seals.
>
> 2) If obvious pits/wear lines, or the news seals don't 'seal', mail part to
> Apple Hydraulics or White Post. The repaired part should last longer than
> you will. They re-bore it and insert a brass sleeve. Not cheap, but
> worthwhile. New seals will then be OK, so $30 not wasted.
>
> 3) As a last resort, buy replacement part(s).
>
>
>
> In doing all this, consider switching to silicone. Do a search here and
make
> an informed decision... I switched after a failed seal caused a fair bit of
> paint damage. Silicon is benign to paint (relatively speaking; at least it
> isn't a paint striper in its spare time, unlike DOT 4).
>
>
>
> Brian
>
> Valley Forge, PA
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