Unfortunately the axle is in the car and I have no plans on taking it
out. I've got a seal removal tool and if that doesn't work I'll try
screws and then dynamite :)
Thanks for the info on the preload. Should be interesting trying to
keep track of turns coming off.
Brad
On Sat, May 1, 2010 at 2:45 PM, J.C. Hassall <jhassall@blacksburg.net> wrote:
> On 5/1/2010 2:18 PM, Brad Kahler wrote:
>>
>> I searched through the factory service manual and it doesn't cover
>> replacing the rear pinion seal. It talks about rebuilding the entire
>> diff but not replacement of the seal.
>>
>> Is there anything special that has to be done to replace the seal or
>> can I just remove the nut and flange, replace the seal, reinstall
>> flange and then torque the nut?
>
> Brad, replacing the seal isn't a difficult job, just kinda fiddly. Or PITA
> fiddly if the axle is in the car. The only critical part is upon
> reassembly, ensuring that the pinion preload is w/i spec. I don't know how
> accurate this method is, but it's better than nothing: I've read that
> counting the number of flats on the pinion nut as you remove it is a good
> way to establish the pinion preload upon reassembly.
>
> WRT seal removal, try threading some large (#10 or so) sheet metal screws
> into opposite sides of the seal, then lever it out or use a slide hammer.
>
> If the axle is in the car, may the Force be with you.
>
> jim
>
> --
> Jim Hassall
> Blacksburg VA
> '63 TR4 in autox preparation
> 99% finished, 90% to go
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