> I am so NOT a structural engineer
I'm not either, but here's what little I know or have observed.
> "Pound for pound" (or whatever
> SAT-style analogy you care to use here), are these adhesives as strong
> as an equivalent spot weld or plug weld or other kind of weld?
The adhesive itself is not as strong as weld metal. What that means is that, to
achieve an equivalent joint strength, the adhesive must be used over a larger
area. But in most cases (especially where spot welds were original) that's easy
to achieve. And, with enough surface area for the joint, the joint can easily
be as strong as the sheet metal.
> Or
> (maybe the same question, but asked differently), is there any
> difference in design of two pieces to be joined via a structural
> adhesive rather than by conventional "mechanical" (weld) joining?
Same answer as above.
> Also, can one really get an appropriate automotive structural adhesive
> at Lowes or Home Depot?
That I don't know. Exterior grade "Silicone caulk" works well as body caulk;
and I've had good success with JB Weld; but I've never tried anything like
"Liquid Nails" on a car. Don't see why it wouldn't work, though. Seems to be
stronger than the surface of the wood, and at least the stuff I used (probably
not "Liquid Nails" brand) didn't seem brittle after some 5 years holding a
doghouse together.
> I'm really NOT trying to be flippant here; I really AM curious about
> this as I've heard much talk about structural adhesives in automotive
> applications of late,
There are of course purpose-made automotive structural adhesives, but AFAIK they
are not found at Lowe's. The stuff I've seen in body shops is essentially an
epoxy cream, with an applicator that automatically mixes the 2 parts as they are
applied.
Randall
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