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RE: water pump leak 80 tr7

To: <lstein6@earthlink.net>, "Triumphs@Autox. Team. Net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>, <tr8@mercury.lcs.mit.edu>
Subject: RE: water pump leak 80 tr7
From: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 22:01:43 -0700
> i had a small leak at the top of the water pump on my tr7.  ordered the 3
> different thickness gaskets from v.b.  replaced with all three.  that must
> have been my mistake, because now it leaks worse !  someone said something
> about the clearance of the vain to the cover and to use three
> gaskets.  i'm
> gonna rip it all apart again (carbs/intake manifold) and do it
> again.  does
> someone know, what gasket ?  or all three ?  or what ?  how can i tell ?

According to my Haynes, you should refit the housing without a gasket,
install the bolts finger tight only and adjust them until the gap between
the housing and the block is even all the way around.  Then measure the gap
with a feeler gauge, and select a gasket that is .010" to .025" thicker.  Be
sure that both surfaces are scrupulously clean before measuring.

> should i use some type of gasket cement ?

I sure would.  Blue Hylomar is my favorite (with the Hylomar HPF that is
available today being a somewhat distant second).  If you can't get Hylomar,
then go with Permatex "Aviation form a gasket" or similar.

Since you're already having trouble with sealing, I'd suggest checking the
housing for flatness.  Lay it on a surface plate or sheet of glass, and try
to slide a .001" feeler gauge between it and the surface.  Also be sure that
none of the bolts are bottoming in their holes.  New lock washers wouldn't
be a bad idea either, if yours are the least bit tired.

Don't know if the TR7 is the same, but on the Stag there is a slot cast into
the block just below the housing, that can emit water.  Might be that's
where your water is coming from ?

Randall

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