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Re: crank seal choice/ now pump pin?

To: CarlSereda@aol.com
Subject: Re: crank seal choice/ now pump pin?
From: Dianne and Peter Fullam <dfullam@albany.net>
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 21:02:10 -0400
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <74.2e7cc4e9.2bffe2cd@aol.com>
Hi Carl

I put in a new rotor assembly from Moss (I think) several years ago. It wasn't 
pinned to
the shaft, but I didn't think much about it at the time. Not too long after 
that one of
the lifters crumbled. When I tore down the engine, the new rotor had a finish 
like 80
grit sandpaper, from the particles going thru it. That's when I found that the 
new rotors
aren't hardened. I dug out the original rotor and it is file hard. It is a 
different
steel from the shaft, which may be why it was pinned. I cleaned it up and put 
it back in
the engine. When the next lifters went south 3 years later, the rotor 
pulverized the
particles down to about .010", or about what the clearance is. Cleaned it up 
and put it
back in. It's worn to the maximum clearance given in the manual, but still 
delivers 55-60
PSI hot  at road speed and 30 PSI at hot idle. This is with Castrol 20W-50 and 
an oil
cooler.

Pete
CT19207
40 years on July 23

CarlSereda@aol.com wrote:

> Thanks Listers,
> Randall, Pete, Bob, Hardy (catpusher), George, & others if I missed any,
> for your advice on the 'aluminum vs. 'retro rubber' rear crank seal issue.
> Last night I got the NOS aluminum seal.
> My previous seal had about 200,000 miles on it but I couldn't see any wear -
> and I had re-installed it about 80,000 miles and 29 years ago using only my
> .003 feeler gauge. When we tried dry fitting the new one last night to the 
>crank
> scroll it was a much more precise fit (no slop like the old one) - I think it
> is going to work out just fine - plus using a mandrel to fit it should help.
> Also got a NOS TR pump rotor/vane kit (wrapped in brown waxed paper and
> sticky brown goo - looked authentic to me!) but when I cleaned it a bit found 
>it
> didn't have a cross-pin locking rotor to shaft like my original '63 version. 
>I'm
> guessing this one is from the '70's. Should I remove pin from my old rotor
> and drill it into my new rotor/shaft? I guess Stanpart later decided a
> 'press-fit' was adequate but I seem to recall hearing some came loose! (or 
>were those
> knock-off aftermarket ones?)
> Any advice on to pin - or not to pin?
> Regards,
> Carl
> '63 TR4 since '74

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