I certainly have made the factory setup work well, even on my National
Championship
racing TR3 (my street TR3A was a snap) If the seal is working, do not mess
with it,
but read the workshop procedure. The TR2/3 and TR4 factory manuals do have a
too
large OD on the tool drawing. It should be 2.818" where it fits inside the
actual seal.
An old crank with the flywheel flange cut off and 0.003" feelers will work
too;
use sewing thread between the crank journal and used bearing shells to remove
any play.
It does help to check that the seal ID is round and the correct size, and
that the seal OD
that fits into the rear of the block/cap has room to move around to
centralize
One should drive the bearing cap felt in after soaking it with aviation
permatex, and apply a
hint of silicone seal to the seal split line; too much will get into the seal
threads.
Do use silicone seal between the block and the seal, and the cap and seal.
Hardy Prentice
man of many rear crank seals & TR projects
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Does anyone believe in staying with the original aluminum crankshaft seal on
>
> TR3-4A's anymore?
> When properly set up aren't they virtually drip free? It's an old design
> used
> for at least a decade.
> Is it really worth grinding down the crank and retrofitting a new housing
> for
> a rubber seal?
> Carl
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